Bushcraft

by Tony Nester

Living off the land is a skill that can pay off in large dividends if you are stranded in the wilds long-term; want to add more variety into your daily diet at home and reduce food bills, or be prepared in the event of a grid-down situation where the grocery shelves empty.

Having taught extended bushcraft courses during the past 26 years, I’ve found the area of procuring food in the wilderness to be the most challenging skill in the field of wilderness living. Once learned and regularly applied, you will gain greater confidence in the back-country and know how to obtain food from a land that has much to offer, to those who know where to look.

The following material intends to convey practical methods that a person, with little experience in the outdoors, can use to get started obtaining food from Nature’s Kitchen. The emphasis of this article is on small game and not big game animals like elk, moose, and deer.

On any given day in the wilds, you are going to come across a greater concentration of rabbits, squirrels, woodchucks, marmots, raccoons, and other smaller critters. For the survivor, these animals will provide sustenance until you can procure the larger game.

Food procurement has a lot of myths and misconceptions surrounding it, however. The idea that one can simply grab their bug-out bag and head into the hills to live off nature’s kitchen for a few months has been perpetuated in the reality shows and can get you into trouble. It took a tribe to feed a tribe and our ancestors relied on sheer numbers to obtain wild food, not on a lone-wolf mentality.

I’ve had the opportunity to eat just about everything that crawls, flies, walks, or slithers- from snakes and coyotes to rats and grasshoppers. Under conditions where hunger is constantly gnawing away at the body (and mind), my food prejudices quickly fade after a few days and you will eat anything that runs in front of you. My success is also greatly increased by having a few key hunting and trapping tools with me at all times. Keep in mind that game laws vary tremendously from state to state so research your region of the country to determine what’s legal.

The Challenge of Living Off the Land

Procuring food in the wilderness can be a challenge because of some or all of the following reasons:

1) Few people subsistence hunt or trap like they did a generation ago and the skills and knowledge base in the community have been reduced or completely disappeared in some regions.

2) When many people hunt today, it is mostly for Big Game trophies which means sport first, and meat second. Plus, the sheer number of hunters taking to the woods each season is staggering. As a result, state game laws are becoming more restrictive and the pressure from often ill-informed animal rights groups have all but eliminated certain practices such as trapping from many states.

3) The geographic region (desert, mountains, etc…) may not support much life to begin with. It is far easier to make it as a hunter-gatherer in the lush, Pacific Northwest than in the desert lowlands of the parched Southwest.

4) It may have been a particularly tough year for your region. Perhaps the drought is severe or wildfires are wreaking havoc, and thus the animals and plants are suffering.

5) Modern game laws are much different than when our ancestors walked the planet and could harvest any species of animal in any season, day or night.

6) Subsistence hunting and gathering is best performed as a group (tribe) and not as a solo pursuit. The more eyes, ears, and hands out on the land the greater the odds of obtaining wild meat, fish, and plants. Many of us today have little choice but to go solo which reduces “caloric efficiency.”

7) Finally, one cannot discount the TBH Effect- “Trained By Hollywood Effect.” There is a constant barrage of romantic notions that we receive from movies and “reality” shows depicting how people are supposed to live in the wilds. If you trek into the wilderness like Jeremiah Johnson, then have realistic expectations of your own skills, what the land can provide, and what is reasonable (and legal) for your region. Even then, don’t expect it to be easy.

Four Areas of Study for the Modern Hunter-Gatherer

In today’s world, if you want to feed yourself reasonably well in the backcountry, you must focus on the following four areas of study:

1. Proficiency with a .22 caliber rifle or pistol.
2. Basic fishing methods such as angling.
3. Knowledge of the ten common edible plants in your region.
4. How to use traps and snares.

Granted, there are other methods of procuring wild game such as bowhunting, slings, bolas, etc… but the above four represent the core skills to set your sights on as a beginner, in my opinion. If you are a skilled archer then, by all means, work with what you know. The more skills you possess in this realm, the more options you have.

If you are new to firearms and hunting, then seek out an experienced family member or friend who can show you the basics of firearm safety and marksmanship. I highly recommend taking a Hunter Safety class. This will provide the foundation skills of safety and basic gun handling skills as well as covering game laws specific to your state.

Tools of the Trade

 

Provided you are in good habitat, a quality rifle along with the proper training can tip the odds in your favor for procuring wild game. Having been on countless survival treks where we lived solely off the land using primitive skills (no modern gear), I can say that I will gladly take a small caliber firearm any day for filling the stew pot.

There are two approaches to living off the land: Passive and Active. 1) Passive is using traps, snares, deadfalls, trotlines, cast nets, etc…. You are setting out the device and letting it do the work for you while you are back at camp or home. 2) Active is where you are moving across the landscape or still hunting. This is more calorie intensive and not as productive as trapping. I find it is best to employ both methods which increases your food procurement capabilities.

Bushcraft Rifles

I use a Ruger 10-22 with a scope for small game. This is the most ubiquitous .22 on the market with plenty of products if you want to modify the stock, trigger, sights, etc…. CCI Minimag hollow points are my preferred ammo for hunting. I also have a Marlin Papoose collapsible .22 that I use on occasion.

Bushcraft Shotguns

I am a sucker for the old H & R single-shot 20 gauge for hunting small game. You can still find these for under $120 and many a youth has bagged his first squirrel with this simple but efficient shotgun. H & R also makes a hollow, synthetic stock called the Survivor. The stock has enough space to stow basic survival supplies.

Combination Rifles

I think the best of both worlds is getting an over and under rifle. I use either a Savage Model 24 which is a .222 caliber over a .20 gauge or a Savage Model 42 which is a .22LR over a .410 gauge. Both of these are excellent for taking large and small game. I have a penchant for the older rifles with a real wood stock and a nice heft.

Air Rifles

A former student of mine, who was involved in air gun competitions, introduced me to high-powered air-rifles for hunting small game. Until my vision changed recently, I was using a Benjamin 392 with iron sights but have switched to a Hatsan 125 with a scope. This shoots .25 caliber pellets and is excellent for dropping squirrels and rabbits easily within a 30-yard range not to mention that the ammo is cheap. The Pyramyd Air Company has a wide selection of air rifles and is a good place to start your research.

Recurve Bows

During archery season, I use a Bear Kodiak recurve or a handmade cherry bow both of which have a 45# draw weight. I like making my own cedar arrows and use blunt tips for small game and Zwickey Eskimo broadheads for large game. I fletch my own arrows with a Bitzenburger jig.

Slingshot

I like making my own high-powered slingshots using tubular bands and use these each Fall for squirrel hunting. The beauty of practicing with a slingshot is that the muscle-memory carries over to your archery skills. I use .50 caliber black powder balls for ammo.

Conibears

When we teach trapping courses in Utah, we utilize conibears and snares. A #110 conibear is an excellent game-getter that we use for procuring small animals while we use the larger #330 conibears for beaver and raccoon.

These are extremely efficient traps that can easily fracture your fingers or limbs if you are unfamiliar with how to use them. Take a trapper’s education course, obtain a permit, and then spend time with an experienced trapper if you plan on using conibears.

There’s a reason that the archeological record, the world over, indicates that trapping was the prime means of sustenance for indigenous cultures.

Rat traps, obtained from big-box hardware stores, would be another option for procuring small game and don’t have the hazardous kickback that the Conibear possesses.

Fishing

Fishing isn’t something I do much in Arizona but when I head up to northern regions I bring a collapsible Shakespeare fishing pole, 6-pound test line, three-dozen assorted fish hooks and assorted artificial baits.

Obviously, if you live in a more productive state then your fishing tackle should be heartier than my kit and you may even want to add in crayfish traps. The latter can be found at Wal-Mart.

Cast & Gill Nets

Both cast and gill nets allow the fisherman to harvest a large quantity of fish while expending little effort. These are the time-tested methods used throughout the world by maritime cultures. If I were venturing into a remote waterway or wilderness region and weight wasn’t an issue, I would definitely pack along a cast or gill net for survival purposes. Cast nets range in size from three to eight feet while the standard survival gill net is 12’ by 4’ and packs down to the size of a softball.

A Menu of Small Game

Small game includes cottontail rabbit, squirrel, marmots, skunk, gopher, woodchuck, jackrabbit, chipmunk, ringtail, raccoon, and porcupine. Not all of these are legal to hunt and you will have to check out your state’s game laws.

One squirrel or rabbit will generally provide a single meal for one person. On the other hand, a fat raccoon or porcupine might last one person for four days. Raccoon tastes like roast-beef, if grilled over an open fire or the barbecue, and is an outstanding meat.

Most of us tend to have a romantic image of the native hunter relying on deer or buffalo as their sole means of sustenance, when in fact, it was the microfauna or small mammals that provided the consistent day to day food source in many parts of the world.

In terms of animal population density, you will be able to sustain yourself with small game far easier than larger animals like deer and elk (and obtaining hunting permits for small game is far easier!).

One wildlife biologist in Nevada found that the number of small mammals per square kilometer was around 4600! Another study in Manitoba, Canada revealed 10 squirrels per acre. The research also suggests that spring and early summer show the highest concentration of mammals.

Summary

If you are reading this article, then you had ancestors who hunted and gathered, fished and foraged. Our body and mind evolved from a much different lifestyle than the one we lead today in our largely urban world. You were born with the senses and abilities to be a hunter. They are already hardwired into your being. Spend some time focusing on one of the four key areas listed here and get started this weekend.

Learn about the top ten edible plants used in your region, acquire proficiency with a .22 rifle or air-rifle; get a small-game hunting permit and take to the field; spend time fishing with your family on the next camping trip. The time to learn how to feed yourself from nature’s kitchen is before a crisis hits and the grocery shelves empty.

Start out with a few of these activities and you will be, not only eating healthier but prepared to supplement your home pantry in the event of an emergency.

Recommended Reading

• Camp Life & the Tricks of Trapping
• The Modern Hunter-Gatherer
• Subsistence: A Guide For The Modern Hunter-Gatherer: Hunting, Trapping, Fishing & Foraging for a Living in Texas
• The Forager’s Harvest: A Guide to Identifying, Harvesting, and Preparing Edible Wild Plants

About the Author: Tony Nester is the author of numerous books and DVDs on survival. His school is the primary provider of survival training for the Military Special Operations community, and he has served as a consultant for the NTSB, Travel Channel, NY Times, Backpacker Magazine, and the film Into the Wild. Tony also writes post-apocalyptic fiction under the pen name JT Sawyer.

For more information, visit www.apathways.com or www.jtsawyer.com.

by Christine W

I once read a very interesting article from a survivor of the Bosnian Collapse in the late 90’s. This was a true end of the world as they knew it event, and it was fascinating and eye-opening to read. One of the things the man talked about in his extensive article was the most useful skills to posses.

Medical knowledge was the highest on his list. Lacking real world medical training, people with the knowledge of the uses of herbs and plants were able to trade and use that knowledge to survive.

Most people in America can’t identify even 1% of the plants that surround them. They don’t know useful from poisonous or nutritious from useless plants. And yet there are dozens of plants that grow even in urban settings that are not only edible but downright lifesaving if you only can identify them.

For 15 years I have been a gardener and outdoorswoman. Much of my knowledge has come from being a curious person interested in the world around me, and also from searching for natural ways to heal common ailments for myself and my children.

I have been amazed at the amount of plants growing near me that can be used for healing, and have compiled a small list of what I consider the important common plants that grow in the USA, things you can find right out your back door. I am sure there are thousands more!

Knowledge is power, so I recommend that you should start now when it comes to identifying wild and not so wild food and medicinal sources. Once you can recognize a plant start noting where you see them, what time of year they flower in your area and when they bear fruit. I go out for drives along country roads and memorize where plants, bushes, berries, and helpful trees are growing.

You can also look around your neighborhood. Rose Bushes will provide you with rose hips that are high in vitamin C and can save you from scurvy in the winter. Echinacea also known as Purple Coneflowers are popular in gardens can boost the immune system and also have a host of other uses.

Look up color photos of plants on the internet to help you identify them, or join a wild crafting group if one is available. Having a print out of each plant with multiple pictures and uses of them, along with how to use them and dosages, is very important in a SHTF event.

There are many books specifying every area of America for finding wild foods and they often have excellent color pictures and identification keys. I keep a few of them in my purse when I go up to the wild and try to identify as many helpful plants as possible. Often these books are inexpensive so picking them up is a good idea.

As a note I say where you can find the below plants. We live in the dry west so most plants only grow near water sources. However, I know that in other areas of the country rain is more plentiful so the growing habitat is much different.

If you are gathering post or during SHTF remember your personal safety and weigh the possible benefits vs. danger of running into other hungry people. Never go alone even now as accidents happen and wild animals many times enjoy wild foods as much as people do.

Meeting a hungry bear while picking berries is a highly unpleasant event! When you head to any wilderness take precautions and let people know where you are going and when you are coming back. Always take a first aid kit, water, a good map, and some food with you.

Caution! As with any wild foraging check and double check your identification before eating anything, do not take another person’s word on the safety of a plant. Some wild foods are debated on their safety as some people will have a reaction where others do not.

Also if you have food allergies be wary and careful when trying new things. Remember that when harvesting wild foods make sure they are not sprayed with poisons or chemicals. I am not a doctor and am not giving medical advice. If you want to try natural remedies do your research and also talk to your doctor.

Even though these plants are natural they can still be very strong medicines and even interact with other medication you are taking!

Alfalfa

Amazingly enough, this plant, a common feed for animals, is one of the most useful in a TEOTWAWKI collapse, or even just in a financial collapse where you suddenly become dirt poor. Alfalfa is highly nutritious and can be used to treat several conditions. The most important in my mind being bleeding, hemorrhaging, hemorrhaging after birth, and heavy menstrual bleeding.

Blood loss is a common problem where medical care is limited and people are exposed to hard physical work or dangerous situations.

Childbirth for women is the most fatal event during life in 3rd world countries, many of the deaths coming from hemorrhaging after birth. Drinking a tea made from alfalfa, or eating alfalfa in the last few weeks of pregnancy can help prevent hemorrhage or excessive bleeding due to several compounds it contains, this includes vitamin K which is essential to blood clotting.

I used this supplement under my midwife’s supervision during my last two pregnancies.

My first two births went off well except that I hemorrhaged after birth. After my second birth, I hemorrhaged so severely that I was only saved by my midwife administering emergency shots of anti-hemorrhaging drugs (which will not be available to most women in a SHTF event).

For two months after I was weaker than normal and under strict instructions to take it easy. My next two births went well and I barely bled at all, even compared to normal bleeding. Both times I was taking alfalfa at the end of my pregnancy. Pregnant women should not take it until the last three weeks of pregnancy due to the fact that as it has hormone properties that could cause labor and miscarriage.

Once a woman is considered full term at 37 weeks that is not such an issue. Taking too much alfalfa for longer than a month can have the opposite effect and cause bleeding to be worse! Newborns need Vitamin K for proper development and usually receive an injection soon after birth, but during or after a SHTF event those shots may not be available and doctors recommend mothers consume foods with high vitamin K so that it will be passed to the nursing child.

Dried or fresh alfalfa can be used in the human diet and also as a compress on wounds to help them stop bleeding. In application to a wound, it is essential to boil the water for 10 minutes to kill bacteria and then boil the alfalfa added for a few minutes thus killing any bacteria on the plant leaves. Alfalfa helps people who are nutritionally deficient.

It helps a great deal with vitamin C deficiency when used fresh, for it contains more vitamin C than some citrus fruits. Scurvy is caused by a vitamin C deficiency and is a common problem for people during famines, or when there is a lack of fresh fruits and vegetables.

It also has very high B vitamin levels and Vitamin D levels which help with problems such as rickets, a common disease especially affecting children who have poor diets or are not exposed to enough sunlight. This is a common problem when living in a war zone or an area where people must stay inside much of the time due to violence as Vitamin D cannot be manufactured by the body and is mainly created by the skin’s exposure to the sun.

Alfalfa is also easy to store when dried and is very cheap. It is a good item to keep on hand. Alfalfa is grown everywhere in the USA and can be found along ditch banks and country roads growing wild, in fields as well as in farmyards. It does not need to be reseeded every year so a field that had it last year will have it this year as well.

Raspberry Leaf

Raspberries (also known as redcaps, bramble berries, dewberry, and thimbleberry) grow wild in the USA and are even considered an invasive species. They come in red, black, purple, and golden fruit all of which is essentially the same plant, but these other fruit colors do not generally grow in the wild like the common red does. Obviously, the fruit is edible but the leaves and even roots can be used for highly effective remedies.

The most well known is for aid to painful menstruation, to regulate and normalize a woman’s cycle, and also to help shorten and lessen the pain of childbirth. I am all for shortening the length of childbirth; having had four children naturally! Caution must be used however, raspberry leaf can cause uterine contractions, so it should only be used once labor has begun or a week before birth is expected.

It can be used by non-pregnant women during and right before menstruation. Another equally important use of raspberry leaf is it’s use as a cure for diarrhea. More on that in the Blackberry Section. These plants are found near water, in boggy areas, besides stream banks, in gullies, on ditch banks, or growing anywhere that gets plentiful rainfall.

Blackberry Fruits, Leaves, and Roots

Diarrhea is one of the most common killers in third world countries due to contaminated water supplies and poor water treatment facilities. As a country collapses the infrastructure of water treatment always breaks down, and waterborne illness explodes. Preparation for such a disease is essential when we plan for a SHTF event.

Diarrhea is especially fatal to children and the elderly and is frightening at how fast it kills. Soldiers in battle frequently suffer from dysentery due to bad water as well. For centuries blackberries (and to a lesser extent any of the brambleberry varieties such a red caps, black caps, Marionberries, dewberries, and raspberries) have been used for treating diarrhea, dysentery, foodborne illness, and even the more deadly waterborne illnesses. This must be remembered to be a treatment, not a cure as diarrhea is a symptom of an infection in the body which must be treated as well.

Blackberry Root Bark is the most effective remedy for diarrhea, but if you can’t get to the roots the leaves are highly effective as well, even dried ones. Last is the fruit which can be eaten or a syrup or juice made from the fruit. A syrup or juice is especially useful when treating small children.

One teaspoon of root or leaves per boiling cup of water, steeped for 20 minutes, then sweetened with honey if possible due to its healing and soothing properties is a good dosage. It is the tannins in the blackberry plant that help with diarrhea.

Blackberries are even more invasive than red raspberries and grow profusely throughout the USA. If in a dry region look for them along streams or down in gullies and canyons. The leaves and root bark are easy to dry, and the leaves can be eaten and are high in nutrition.

Elderberries

I grew up eating wild elderberries, these are a round purple-ish blue fruit that grows in clusters on a bushy tree. The bush flowers in late spring depending on your area and the fruits are ripe in early fall.

They are very common growing wild and like water so they grow either near bodies of water or in areas that get plenty of water. I often see them growing in old farmyards or homesteads because the pioneers and old farmers used them not only for health but as a much-needed fruit.

They also can be found in gullies and draws. The fruit has a dusty powder on it, but care should be taken as the red elderberry, the stems of all elderberries that connect to the fruit, and also the unripe fruit, are poisonous.

The fruit and flowers have been proven in clinical trials to help with many ailments, but especially in respiratory infections such as bronchitis and also to help thin mucus. The fruit are very high in vitamin C and are used to treat the flu and to boost the immune system. Elderberries would be good for an insurance against scurvy. Harvesting is easy and making juice, syrups, or tinctures from them is the best way to use them for healing.

The flowers are used to make a tea or tincture for respiratory ailments and compress for wounds. They also are good in pies, jams, jellies, and to make wine and liquors. There is some evidence that they should be cooked before consuming as uncooked raw fruit can cause stomach upset. Elderberry syrup is safe for children.

Other Berries – Obviously there are many berries growing throughout the United States, many of them not only edible but beneficial as well. Getting a good book on berry identification for your area is an excellent idea.

Rosehips

Wild roses grow all over the USA along roads, up in the mountains, and in forests. They are usually found as just a single flower, meaning they are a single layer of petals in a ring around the central part of the flower, maybe five petals in a ring.

Roses are also grown in many yards and gardens, and there are even rose varieties grown specifically for large rosehips. Rosehips are the main and most helpful part of the plant for use. Wild roses have small hips compared to their cultivated cousins, but size doesn’t matter when it comes to food and medicinal value.

They can be eaten raw in a pinch, but the most common way is to chop the hips roughly and pour 1 cup boiling water over two teaspoons of the chopped hips. Allow them to steep for 20 minutes and sweeten with honey, or, if for a child under two years of age, sugar or syrup. Rose hips are higher in vitamin C than citrus fruit and not only prevent but also treat scurvy.

They are easy to identify and easy to harvest. Rose hips make a tea that is tart and pleasant to drink. They can help treat urinary tract infections and the flu, and rose hips also boost the immune system. When fresh veggies and fruit are unavailable, rosehips can be found even in winter and still be eaten as they do not rot easily and cling to the rosebush.

Rosehips are generally a reddish color, and it is wise to look for ones that are still firm, not black or with mold or rot on them. They can be used to make syrup, jelly, jam, wine, and juice. The flowers of roses are also edible but make sure you don’t eat them if they are been sprayed with pesticide.

Bachelor Buttons

Bachelor Buttons, also known as cornflowers, are a flower that grows wild and cultivated across the USA. They are popular in wildflower or cottage gardens and are also drought tolerant and reseed prolifically in the wild. The common color is a cobalt blue, but especially in gardens, they come in white, light pink, and purple.

The flower is the part used and is most commonly utilized as an eyewash for injured or infected eyes. This is usually done by steeping the flowers in freshly boiled water, cooled, and then applied over the eyes on a moistened rag.

A similar rinse for cuts and sores in the mouth aids healing. In this instance, it is best to spit out after swishing around the mouth. Furthermore, they can also be used in the same form to wash cuts, scrapes, and bruises.

Combine one teaspoon of dried cornflower petals, or five fresh blossoms with one cup of boiling water. Cover and steep for 15-20 minutes; after this you may strain and consume. If taking internally it is best for no longer than two weeks.

Cornflower tea has been used to calm diarrhea, treat urinary tract infections, and for anxiety or nervousness. This flower can be found along roadsides, in fields, and in clearings. They love full sun and they are very easy to grow. Women who are pregnant or breastfeeding should not use this internally. If you have allergies to daisies or ragweed you should not use this at all.

Lambs Quarters/Wild Spinach

Lambs Quarters, also known as wild spinach, goosefoot, pigweed, good king Henry, and fat hen, is considered by most gardeners as a weed, but is, in fact, is a highly nutritious and delicious plant that grows everywhere and is easy to identify. It is nicer than common spinach because it is slow to bolt in the heat of summer, and because while tasting like spinach, it is even more nutritious.

It can be cooked or eaten raw and the stems leaves and seeds are all edible. It can also be frozen, canned or dried for later eating. Lamb’s Quarters is a good survival food and can be found in yards, abandoned lots, fields, gardens, and along roads. You can cut it off almost to the root, yet it comes up and starts leafing out again.

Dandelion

Dandelion is another common yard weed that grows almost everywhere, including in the mountains. I never dig up the dandelions in my yard but use them and also feed them to our rabbits. We do not treat our yard with chemicals. It is highly nutritious, and all parts are edible- including the roots which can be dried and used as a coffee substitute. It has been used as a diuretic and to cleanse the blood of toxins.

The milk that comes when you cut the plant can be used on wounds and is highly effective to use on warts. I have used the milk on three of my children’s warts and all three times it made them disappear naturally without pain or scarring. It must be applied every day for a good month to the warts. A tea made from all parts of the dandelion is absurdly rich in nutrients and would be well utilized by those suffering from malnutrition.

Wild Onions

Wild onions are easy to identify because they smell like onions! They are considered a weed in many parts of the country, and they can be eaten like regular onions while being a healthy addition to the diet and are easy to dry for future use. They can be in yards or near places that have a constant water supply or a good rain.

Pine Trees/Spruce Trees

Pine trees are common all across the USA and several parts of the tree can be used both medicinally and nutritionally. The needles themselves are rich in vitamin C and can be steeped in boiling water to create a tea to fight scurvy (vitamin C deficiency), and they are also high in vitamin A and beta-carotene. Spruce tip tea or pine needle tea is useful to treat a sore throat, cough, colds, and chest congestion.

This is a very important survival food as it is so readily available and easy to find. The best tasting needles are young tender ones, but older needles work just the same nutritionally. Pine nuts that are found in pine cones are rich in calories, healthy fats, vitamins, and minerals and are high in vitamin K which helps stop bleeding. The inner bark of pine trees is even edible but should only be used in an emergency because to get at it you kill the tree.

Pine Sap has many uses and is highly effective for use on wounds when mixed as a salve to prevent and treat an infection. It is also used as the flu and cold treatment when mixed with honey or made into a tincture. It not only fights the infection inside but also soothes sore throats.

Chopped pine needles added to a hot bath can help with skin problems since they contain natural sulfur, they also soothe sore muscles and joints. Pine oil can be used by adding a few drops to boiling water and then breathing in the steam; there is evidence that it helps cure sinus infections, bronchitis, and breaks up mucus. Pine oil kills germs and can be used to clean surfaces during illnesses, although, it must always be diluted and never applied straight to skin.

However, pine oil is a distilled product and must go through special processing and may not be easy to replicate after SHTF (although what a skill to have!) Use roughly chopped pine needles, with boiling water poured over, then cover your head with a towel over the bowl and breath deeply. Pine needles are also a natural flea and bug repellent and can be used to stuff beds and cushions to deter them. The scent of pine is generally very calming. Caution – Pregnant women should not use pine needle tea as there is fear it could cause miscarriage. There are three varieties of toxic pine, and it is highly recommended to learn how to identify and avoid them. They are Norfolk Island Pine, Yew, and Ponderosa Pine.

Crabapples

These are a variety of apple that are often overlooked as an edible fruit because they are unpleasant for fresh eating. They are very good for cooking and if sweetened can be made into pies, jams, jellies, syrup, wine, pickled, and when mixed with other fruits dried in fruit leather. They were mainly used by our forefathers as an addition to cider making as they added depth of flavor and a bit of tartness to the finished product. There are many varieties of crabapple tree and the fruit can be quite large as they are grown for their pretty look. They are grown in many yards and businesses as a decorative tree and the fruit is most often left to rot. Most people I have asked are eager to let me pick off their trees since otherwise they eventually fall and have to be raked up. They also can be found growing wild and in old orchards or farms. Crabapples are high in vitamin C and make a pleasant tea when sweetened. They have been used to treat urinary infections and can also be juiced to make cider vinegar which is one of the most healthy things you can make. For the best flavor harvest after they have been frosted on.

Wild Plums

These are native to the USA and grow in all parts. They are small and are usually a yellowish red color. Wild Plums are a tasty fruit for fresh eating and are useful in making jam, jelly, syrup, pies, and pickles. They are very high in vitamin C and Iron. Dried or fresh they are a good laxative and treat anemia.

Cattails

A well known wild food that grows in marshy or wet areas these are easy to identify. All parts of the plant are edible in different seasons and have good food value. The root can be pounded and applied to cuts and scrapes as a poultice. As these always grown near or in water be careful of pollution.

Rhubarb

This is not necessarily a wild food but it is so common that noting where it grows is a good idea. This plant comes back year after year for practically ever and you see it often in abandoned lots, old farmsteads, abandoned homes, or in peoples gardens.

Most people never use it and are happy to give away to those who will. Harvesting in the spring is best when it is tender. Rhubarb can be made into jam, sauce, syrup, put into pies, cakes, and bread and canned.

Rhubarb is rich in B- complex vitamins such as folates, riboflavin, niacin, vitamin B-6, thiamin, and pantothenic acid and good levels of vitamin K. It has been used to treat stomach problems. The leaves are poisonous, only the stalks should be eaten.

Daylilies

These grow all over the US and in many places, they grow wild or have taken over lots of land and gardens as they are hardy and invasive. They are edible. The shoots when young in spring can be cooked like asparagus or eaten raw, the flowers should be harvested in summer and can be fried like squash flowers, chopped and added to salads, and immature buds cooked like green beans. The tubers can be gathered year round and cooked like corn. They have been used to treat arsenic poisoning.

Nuts

There are so many trees that produce edible nuts that all I can recommend is that you get a good identification book and start looking around you. Nuts are high in nutrition, healthy fats, and calories so they make an excellent survival food.

A couple of varieties that are overlooked by people are acorns and pine nuts found in pine cones. Acorns have good food value but are bitter so most people avoid them, meaning that you will have more opportunity to gather them. Learn how to process them to get out the bitterness.

Wild Strawberries

Also known as Alpine strawberry, Common Strawberry, Mountain Strawberry, Pineapple Strawberry, Wild Strawberries, Wood Strawberry, Woodland strawberry. These grow prolifically all over the USA and although the fruit is very nice to eat (but tiny) the leaves have great food value and have been used to treat diarrhea when made into a tea.

The leaves contain beneficial minerals and vitamins. The root is also used to treat diarrhea. These like shady places but also can grow in sunny clearings and fields..

Wild Violets

The leaves and the flowers are edible and can be found growing in many yards and gardens where they are considered a weed. They are purple-ish blue or white and can be found in the shade of forests or moist clearings. They can be added to salads or cooked. The medicinal uses are many and they make a lovely salve for irritated skin and rashes and also a tea can be made from the leaves and flowers to ease the pain of headaches and arthritis as well as to treat diarrhea. They appear early in spring and grow all summer long in the shade. They are loaded with vitamin A and C which makes them a good remedy for colds and flu. The flowers can be added to jellies during the cooking stage and turn the liquid a lovely violet color.

Ferns

Several fern varieties are edible and are often called fiddleheads, however, care must be taken as there are also several non-edible varieties that can cause mild to severe illness. Invest in a good identification book or print many pictures out of edible varieties off the internet for better identification. These must be harvested in early to late spring. They are fried, steamed sautéed, boiled, and pickled and are rich in vitamin A and C.

Wild Greens

There are so many kinds that it would take a good sized book to describe them all and I highly recommend buying a field guide and searching them out. Some that are common and worth investigating are mustard, watercress, stinging nettle, miners lettuce, sorrel, red clover, and sweet coltsfoot. Most greens are best harvested in the spring and early summer when they are tender and young.

Willow Tree

The willow tree has been used for thousands of years to treat pain. It grows in yards and woods across the United States. The bark of the tree, especially that of the White Willow tree is what as used and has the same actions of aspirin for treating pain and fever Use 1 to 2 teaspoons of willow bark to 8 oz of boiling water and boil for 5 to 10 minutes.

Then turn off heat and allow to steep for 20 to 30 minutes more.

Drinking 3 to 4 cups throughout the day is recommended to be effective. Gathering and drying the bark in spring summer and fall would be a good idea to have a store through winter.

This is a real medication similar in its side effects to aspirin, it interacts with several drugs and can cause the same stomach problems as aspirin so research it well before use. Pregnant and nursing women and children under two should never use willow bark.

Mints

Mints are not a really wild species but are so highly invasive once planted in a garden that they quickly spread and can take over vast tracts of land. There are many varieties and just as many uses both as a food as well as medicinally. Mints are high in vitamin A and spearmint, in particular, is high in minerals. It is often used internally to treat stomach upset, headaches, body aches, reduce fever, for sore throats and cough, anti-flatulence, and diarrhea. Externally mint is an excellent insect repellent and can be used to treat lice, muscle aches, soothe insect bites, hair care, and vaginitis. A simple tea is used internally and is quite pleasant, externally a similar tea can be made and cooled before application.

Mushrooms

Wild mushrooms can be very helpful both medicinally and nutritionally but great care must be taken as so many varieties are deadly. I won’t go into them here but invest in a good full-color photographic field guide, and even then be careful! The only mushroom I feel very safe harvesting is morels because they are so distinctive and only have one similar species to contend with. As my father said they look like a brain!

Tree Saps

There are several trees that produce edible saps that can be boiled down into sweet syrups. Most commonly we think of the maple tree, and all maples produce sap although the sugar maple is the most well known and produces the highest volume per tree. There are however several other trees that produce good sap for human use. Pine trees are one but the sap is more for medicinal use than for pleasurable eating. Birch, Walnut, and Sycamore all produce an edible sap for syrup making. Obviously, these are high in sugar content which equals calories. As a caution only stick to the above or other documented non-poisonous trees for sap. Tree sap syrup has many vitamins and minerals making them a good survival food.

Wild Leeks Or Ramps

These are a leek or onion-like bulb that are common throughout the United States in forested areas and grow often near streams or on hills. The leaves when torn or bruised smell of onion or garlic so they are easy to identify. The plant resembles lily of the valley. These are found and harvested in the spring. When harvesting only take half of what you find so they can continue to propagate.

Supplies For Harvesting – A good pair of boots and weather specific clothing, good identification books or literature, a small hand shovel, a good sturdy bucket/basket with a handle/or canvas bags, a knife for cutting, gardening gloves, a sidearm for meetings with predators of the four-legged to two-legged kind.

M.D. Creekmore recommends you get a copy of The Forager’s Harvest: A Guide to Identifying, Harvesting, and Preparing Edible Wild Plants.

Survival is all about being prepared for any scenario that comes your way. You should have protections against wildlife; you should have the necessary equipment for building a shelter; you should have extensive knowledge in hunting, trapping, and fishing and many more important elements to stay alive.

But, if you are the especially motivated survivor, you will have prepared yourself for every possible climate, which not only includes acquiring appropriate clothing and footwear but learning the basics of fire making as well.

Firemaking is one of several bushcraft skills every survivor should have in their toolkit. Creating a source of heat during cold weather and all that it entails (snow, ice, frost) can make all the difference when sleeping through a potential blizzard.

Many survivors know how to make a fire when the wood is dry and easily ignited, but making a fire with wood that is drenched by rain or snow can be a challenge.

Being prepared for these scenarios means planning ahead, learning necessary skills and being eager to employ those skills during moments of intense pressure, like surviving in the woods. If you follow these important steps, starting a fire during wet seasons will be no problem.

Prepping Your Pack

One of the most important things you can do to prepare yourself for any kind of scenario is have a well-established pack. Your pack should include everything from warm-weather clothing to cold-weather clothing, heavy-duty boots to sandals, sleeping equipment to cooking equipment and so much more.

The things that most survivors tend to forget are those which have to be prepared before being packed. These things typically include fresh batteries, fuel replacements, and tinder. Tinder is probably the most common and most important thing survivors forget to pack.

Tinder refers to small, highly flammable materials that help ignite kindling when preparing your fire. Tinder can be difficult to find in wet-weather situations because many materials have been dampened, but it is something that can easily be prepared and packed. Some examples of tinder include cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly, wax-coated wooden toothpicks, paper/wood chippings, dryer lint and other highly flammable, compact items.

Aside from tinder, another important element to remember for starting your fire is multiple styles of firestarter. This includes things like BIC lighters (being sure the fuel level is sufficient), fire steel rods, magnesium, matches, torches and other combustible products.

Tools for chopping wood and shaving branches will become necessary for wet-weather fire-making. You will need some kind of ax for splitting wood, a sharp knife for fraying kindling to make feather sticks, and an extra knife for scraping magnesium or fire steel.

Finding a Spot

The location at which you start your fire will make a huge difference in the amount of time your fire stays lit. Unfortunately for wet-weather survivors, finding a dry place to build a flame can be nearly impossible. Luckily, starting a fire when it’s wet can be made easier if you follow a few simple hacks.

In your pack, you should have some kind of shovel. If not, use a stick and begin digging away at the wet soil to expose the dryer soil below. Removing the top layers of damp earth will help create a basin for starting your fire and give your fire a dry place to burn longer.

I also like to build small grills to start my fire by placing two large, fairly wet logs about a foot from each other and laying soaked pine needles and other tree trimmings over it. The outer logs act as legs, while the needles create a grate-like mechanism. This method allows your fire to burn above the wet soil or snow.

A less labor-intensive option could be simply laying wet tree trimmings on the ground and slowly layering dry wood over the top. The dry wood will catch flame while the wet materials beneath supports the fire.

If you can find a spot that has some overhead cover — like the mouth of a cave, the base of a large evergreen, or inside a shelter you’ve built with your masterful skills — lighting a fire will become even easier. You will be more likely exposed to dryer earth and have a more feasible location for starting a fire and staying protected from the elements.

Another little hack that has worked extremely well for me in the past is splitting logs in half to burn. Damp logs typically have very dry cores, so splitting the logs lengthwise helps expose the more flammable parts of the log. If you have a survival fort complete with a log splitter, consider doing this in advance and storing the split logs in a dry place.

Locating Solid Materials

Having proper materials is probably the most important aspect of building a fire. You have to be sure your materials are flammable or your fire will never light. The hard part is locating these materials in the event of a blizzard or rainstorm when everything available to you is soaked.

The best place to begin looking for dry materials in a wet world is under large evergreen and pine trees. At the base of these trees, there are typically dry, mostly dead, branches still clinging to the tree, above the moisture on the ground. Use your knife or axe to remove these dry branches. If they are still slightly moist, peel or cut away the outer layers of bark to expose the inner, dry wood.

Some dead trees have already fallen and made themselves easier to scavenge for flammable materials. Stay toward the top side of the tree, as the bottom side may be pretty wet. Use the dry bark, inner layers, and dead pine needles as tinder for your fire.

If you happen to be near trees that drop pinecones, look for ones that are fairly dry and surely dead. Pinecones are excellent kindling and actually burn quite hot, giving you a better opportunity to ignite the dry logs and make the fire blaze.

Setting Up Your Fire

There are about a hundred and one different ways to set up a fire, but in cold weather scenarios, there are a few specific tricks that help your fire burn hotter, longer. For instance, the formation of the tinder and kindling is vital for creating a flame in a wet environment.

I prefer to use the log cabin method, which is exactly what it sounds like. Similar to your Lincoln Logs from childhood, arrange the kindling strips in a log cabin fashion, minus the roof. The tinder will fit nicely inside the “home,” and the fire will have plenty of oxygen to gain momentum.

Another common style for lighting fires in moisture is the teepee style. Lean the kindling sticks against each other much like a teepee. The tinder will sit inside the kindling and ignite the larger sticks to make adding larger logs easier. The teepee shapes also allows heat to rise naturally and gives the fire a better chance of burning tall.

Igniting Your Fire

The inner pyro in all of us gets excited when it comes time to actually light the fire. This step is fairly self-explanatory but there are a couple of tips and tricks to make this process faster and safer.

• Light your fire from the windward side, or the side that wind is blowing into. The breeze will help shift the heat from the flame across the structure and will help fuel the fire with oxygen once it gets going.
• Light the tinder and kindling structure from the bottom. Heat rises, so starting from the bottom gives your fire a better chance of igniting. Trying to light your fire from the top, like a candle, will not do much good in your attempts to stay warm.

Keeping Your Fire Going

Feeding your fire is a surprisingly meaningful duty. The amount of time you plan to have your fire going relies heavily on the amount of wood you collected in the earlier steps. Without dry logs to continue to feed your flame, your fire will surely burn out and you will surely freeze.

Always be sure you have enough dry wood set aside for the amount of time you are in need of heat. If you plan to stay a whole night by the fire, have a large stack of logs waiting to be burned. If you are not alone, be sure to assign fire buddies: one person to take a sleep break and one person to watch the fire.

An obvious, but important reminder: only throw dry logs on the fire. Often, wet weather fires aren’t burning hot enough to truly burn through damp logs. Damp logs end up smothering the flame, making you start your process over — which is no fun.

Stay Alive and Live Free

My favorite part of starting a fire is being done starting your fire, focusing on keeping it burning, and enjoying the sights around you. Once you have a solid fire built, be sure to rest, relax, catch up on sleep, or roam the nearby wilderness in search of new landscapes to photograph.

Being a survivor is more than just working to live. Once you have done your duties for the day, take in the world and the sights that surround you. Enjoy your experiences in nature and open your heart to the possibility of a world bigger than yourself.

By JD

I don’t like cats. Okay, maybe that’s an understatement. I hate cats. Especially the “free range” variety that you so often find in suburban America. We lived in an area where they were becoming a real problem that animal control wasn’t able to keep up with.

I’d wake up in the middle of the night to cats fighting in the street, find cat crap in my garden and see them just about everywhere on evening walks. The time had come to take a stand.

 

From previous experience, I knew that cats were difficult to eliminate in urban/suburban settings where your options are limited so I did my research and settled on the Havahart live trap (model 1079-B).

I found a combo set that included a squirrel size trap (model 1078) as well, so I bought the set hoping to also reduce strawberry theft in my garden from the local tree rats that most people call squirrels.

My wife was at peace with the purchase because the animals were being relocated. She never asked any questions and I never volunteered any more information. We have an understanding…it works for us.

My first sets were nothing fancy, just laid on the porch in the backyard or in one of the garden rows. The eradication quickly became a hobby and I started researching ways to make my sets more effective.

I learned that by placing some burlap over the top of the trap and putting it against a wall or under a bush helped the animals to feel safe entering the trap. My success rates continued to climb.

 

I tried a number of different baits in the beginning, but canned tuna in the large trap and peanut butter in the small trap were the most successful in luring the game.
After the first month, I had captured 4 cats, 1 small dog, 2 raccoons and 1 possum in my large trap and 6 squirrels in the small trap! Over the years, I’ve even loaned these traps to family and friends to solve their critter complaints and they’ve had similar success rates.

Construction

After 10 years of ownership, both traps have continued to impress me. They have a solid door with steel reinforcements that keep even the smartest animals from escaping (I’ve never had a single animal escape). One piece wire mesh utilized in the body of the traps means there are no seams that can be exploited by the animal. Additionally, the galvanized coating on the trap body prevents rust and corrosion.

I’ve only had 2 problems with either trap: 1- Some minor bending of the spring that activates the door. This is easily bent back into place without the use of tools and with no negative effects. 2- The trigger rod and catch on the pressure plate have needed a little fine-tuning every year or so. Again

 

this adjustment is made by some simple metal bending (no tools needed).

The solid design on these traps incorporates a minimal amount of moving parts (read: fewer parts to break). I was also impressed with the metal hand guard near the carrying handle that keeps the captured animal from attacking your hand while being transported in the trap.

Durability

These traps are well-made (in the USA) and come with a one-year warranty. I have not had to carry out any maintenance other than the minor fixes to the spring on the door and simple adjustments to the trigger. During a decade of use, my traps have spent a considerable amount of time outdoors in both rain and snow without adverse effects. They work as well today as they did the day I bought them. I feel confident they will easily provide many more years of reliable service.

 

Ease of Use

I’ve employed a good variety of traps through the years like the Conibear, coil-spring foothold and all sizes of snares. Without question, the Havahart traps are the simplest design I have ever used. They can be used in almost any application, are super easy to set and are just as portable as their more challenging cohorts.

The beauty of this variety of trap is that the animal is unharmed in any way which gives you the option of relocating the animal if

 

you desire. You should know that releasing an angry possum in your neighbor’s tool shed forges a bond that really stands the test of time!

Even though it’s marketed as a live trap, the Havahart gives you the option of dispatching the animal by providing a secure way to hold it until you are ready to take care of business. In restrictive urban environments, this can be accomplished with a pellet gun or by submerging the trap in a barrel of water.

Sizes and Styles

22 different sizes are available for animals as small as chipmunk and mice or as large as dogs and bobcats.

In additional to the traditional one-door traps, Havahart offers a collapsible variety, a two-door model and an Easy-Set style that makes setting and releasing a simple one-handed operation. Check out their site to learn more: http://www.havahart.com/

Cost and Availability

I cringed when I first learned the cost of these traps, but after 10 years of dependable use and given the ease of employment, I feel the price point is very reasonable. If you crunch the numbers, these traps can provide meat for your pot for pennies on the dollar.

This style of trap has been around for a long time and can sometimes be found used at flea markets or garage sales. The new variety can be found at your local farm and feed type stores or Amazon of course!

Alternatives

Here are some alternative traps that are available:

• Conibear or body grip style-
Pros: Inexpensive and very effective.
Cons: User needs more advanced skill to place the trap, kills the animal (no live option) and are more dangerous to set.

• Coil Spring foothold style-
Pros: Live style trap and can be very effective.
Cons: User needs more advanced skill to place the trap, the animal can be damaged by the trap or chew their leg off to escape. This style is also more dangerous to set.

• Snares-
Pros: Very inexpensive, easy to make your own.
Cons: User needs more advanced skill to place snare, usually kills the animal (no reliable live option).

The Bottom Line

I would highly recommend the Havahart live trap to anyone. If you are new to trapping or live in an urban or suburban environment, there is nothing easier to employ than the Havahart trap. It’s safe to use, extremely effective, quietly works for you 24 hours a day and gives you options on releasing or dispatching your catch.

They’re so user-friendly, anyone can operate these traps. Providing meat for your pot while simultaneously solving your nuisance animal issues has never been easier!

About the Author: JD is the founder of I Will Make You Hard to Kill. His site is dedicated to a wide variety of skills that improve survivability in emergency situations as well as everyday life. He is a SERE Specialist with 18 years of military service teaching aircrew and special operations personnel how to survive, evade, resist and escape at the U.S. Air Force Survival School located at Fairchild AFB, WA.

M.D. Creekmore adds: In my book 31 Days to Survival: A Complete Plan for Emergency Preparedness I give detailed how-to-do-it plans with photos on building a homemade version of the Havahart Live Traps. I also recommend that you get a copy of Being Kind to Animal Pests: A No-Nonsense Guide to Humane Animal Control With Cage Traps.