Bugging Out

The United States is no longer the place it once was. With the border wide open and millions pouring in from over 170 countries, it’s not just about illegal immigration anymore—it’s about the erosion of safety and security. Violent gangs are forming, crime rates are skyrocketing, and you don’t feel as secure in your own home as you once did. Add to that the looming threat of war with Russia and the ongoing economic instability fueled by inflation and BRICS nations ditching the dollar, and it starts to make sense why many Americans are considering relocating to a safer, more stable country.

Relocating isn’t a decision anyone should take lightly. If you’ve invested in prepping and homesteading, moving across borders might seem like starting from scratch. But in these times, safeguarding your family’s future might mean finding a country where individual freedoms, financial stability, and personal security aren’t at constant risk.

If you’re thinking about making the move, here are five countries that check off some of the key boxes for Americans looking for a better life abroad.

1. Costa Rica

Costa Rica has long been a popular destination for expats, and for good reason. This Central American gem offers a relatively low cost of living, friendly locals, and a stable government. They’ve abolished their military, which might seem concerning at first glance, but their focus on peace and neutrality has kept them out of major conflicts.

What makes Costa Rica appealing is its freedom-friendly atmosphere. While firearms ownership isn’t as liberal as in the U.S., it is possible to own firearms with proper licensing. To me this is the main downside to the location, however, the U.S. is heading the same way, and working to ban and limit firearms ownership so…

The government is stable, crime is low (especially in rural areas), and you get to live surrounded by nature. Plus, their healthcare system is top-notch for expats.

Costa Rica does not require proof of vaccination for entry. While the country did have vaccine requirements for certain activities in the past, these have been dropped, and no vaccine certificate is needed for tourism or residence.

2. Panama

Another Central American option, Panama is growing in popularity for its welcoming attitude toward foreign residents. The cost of living is affordable, and they use the U.S. dollar as currency, which makes for an easier transition financially. Plus, Panama offers permanent residency through their “Friendly Nations Visa” program.

The individual freedom factor in Panama is strong. While gun ownership isn’t as permissive as in some parts of the U.S., it’s possible to own firearms for self-defense after obtaining the necessary permits. The country is politically stable, and there’s no risk of being dragged into a global conflict. They’re also big on personal property rights, and taxes are low for expats.

3. Uruguay

If South America is more appealing to you, Uruguay is a solid option. It’s one of the most politically stable countries in the region and has a good balance between modern comforts and traditional values. The cost of living is reasonable, especially outside of the capital, and the country has a laid-back, stress-free vibe.

Uruguay is one of the few countries in Latin America where private gun ownership is allowed, and they have a relatively easy process for obtaining firearms legally. The government respects individual freedoms, and the healthcare system is excellent for expats. Uruguay also avoids getting involved in international conflicts, making it a safer long-term bet.

Uruguay also has no restrictions on foreign ownership of property, and the process is straightforward. The country has a stable political and legal environment, which makes property ownership very secure. Additionally, Uruguay is known for its respect for private property rights, and you don’t have to be a resident to own property.

4. Portugal

Portugal is part of the European Union, but it’s one of the more laid-back countries in Western Europe. It’s affordable, with a cost of living much lower than the U.S., especially if you stay away from Lisbon. Portugal has excellent healthcare, a stable economy, and a culture that values freedom and quality of life.

For gun enthusiasts, Portugal allows legal firearm ownership, though with strict regulations. That said, crime is relatively low, and most people don’t feel the need to carry. Portugal offers the right balance of safety, individual rights, and low taxes for expats, along with easy visa options like the D7 for retirees or passive income earners.

5. Czech Republic

For those looking to relocate to Europe but wanting to maintain some of the freedoms we cherish in the U.S., the Czech Republic is a strong contender. One of the best aspects of the country is its approach to gun ownership. Unlike most of Europe, the Czech Republic allows private citizens to own and carry firearms legally with a license, and their laws are fairly liberal on this matter.

The cost of living is reasonable, especially outside the major cities like Prague. The government is stable, and the country doesn’t get involved in the kinds of geopolitical conflicts that are threatening other nations. Czech culture is also built around personal freedom, and expats are generally welcomed with open arms.

Conclusion

It’s becoming harder to ignore the signs that the U.S. is on a dangerous path. Whether it’s the open borders allowing unchecked migration, the rise in crime, or the economic issues stemming from international tension and the weakening dollar, now might be the time to seriously consider relocating. These five countries offer more safety, freedom, and a chance to start fresh in an environment that values the same principles you do.

If you’re ready to pack up and seek a better, safer life elsewhere, don’t wait until it’s too late. Time is short, and the world is changing fast. Prepare now, make the right connections, and be ready to move when the time comes.

Personally, I’m starting to learn Spanish and looking more and more into… Costa Rica… but always, do your own research and do what is best for you… I’m not leaving yet, however, I am making plans and retaining leaving as an option when needed.

by Randy W

One topic that I have not seen a lot of coverage on in recent years is the topic of getting one’s home prepared just prior to running out the door due to a forced evacuation or a “Bug Out” scenario.

If you live in an area susceptible to Hurricanes, tropical storms tidal waves, Wild fires and the like there will certainly be public service announcements, and News programs contain many of the things I am discussing here but in a situation where you do not have a large “time budget”, due to impending disaster, there are several things that should be addressed (if there is time to do so) prior to evacuating your home. (Please note all of these procedures should be followed if sufficient warning allows for the time to do so).

Personal property and belongings can always be replaced, take care of your loved ones and their safety as the first priority, then if there is time address these measure to prevent your home from sustaining additional non-storm related damaged caused by a compromised utility or system in your home.

First of all, I believe it is essential to leave you home as secure as possible being certain to remove, or secure any pets, cash, jewelry, valuable papers, documents firearms and ammunition. If possible, rare antiques, and valuable should be wrapped, boxed or protected, where they will be out of harm’s way. In case of potential flooding any and all household items that can be moved, should be placed on upper floors of the home rather than left in the basement or on the first floor if applicable. Valuable Items that cannot be moved or taken away should be left out of sight. If valuable electronics or furniture can be seen from an open window then cover all windows and doors with the blinds, or curtains so no one has the ability to see the contents of your home.

If you live in areas where storm evacuations occur such as along the east coast, it is a good Idea to have functional storm shutters installed on windows that face the prevailing direction a storm will usually come from and have plywood (at least ½ inch thick) pre-cut to size to fit all other doors or windows not so equipped. Having plywood precut to size, and properly labeled in advance, can save valuable time and ensure protection is afforded if sufficient warning for such measures is given. If you are forced to leave your home for long periods of time, this practice that will not only protect your windows from windblown objects, wind compression damage, and hail, it will also offer some additional security, protection should the area be overrun by vandals, looters or marauders.

Another good Idea to protect your home prior to evacuation is to learn where the main water shut off is in order to prevent non storm related, water damage. Once the water main has been shut off, it is a good practice to test a low lying faucet to see if the water is off prior to departure (if the is sufficient time to do so). More than one home owner has returned from vacation or a short evacuation to find the exterior of their home in good condition but flooded from a damaged washing machine hose, ice maker water line or other non-storm related, water damage that could have been prevented if water to the home had been shut off.

In rare instances if you should be forced to evacuate your home in winter conditions or for extended periods of time, the water meter should be disconnected and capped, the supply lines should be drained, pressured cleared, and all drains filled with a few cups of RV anti-freeze. This will prevent pipes from bursting in colder climates. While this would be rare in most evacuation scenarios weather related steps should be taken. In most cases of short term evacuations the possibility of frozen water lines would be small, but it is of course weather dependent.

In an event of a possible Forced evacuation there may not be time to drain and winterize the lines but be aware there are conditions where this could be warranted.

One of the scariest cases of having to evacuate your home would be due to a possible wild fire looming in your area. The Local Fire Marshal may ask to have home owners leave their water on with garden hoses at the ready (should the home owner be forced to leave, at least the fire department would be able to douse the roof or siding should here be a save opportunity to do so). Each forced evacuation may be different and the Local authorities will announce their methodology for such an evacuation. This is by no means a comprehensive guide and is just mentioned for educational purposes.

In addition to shutting off water flow to the home in case of a Bug-out, the natural or LP gas supply to the home should be shut off at the meter or the LP tank dome.

There are certain appliances that rely on pilot lights to start the flame when they are placed in use (water heater, gas log, etc.). These appliances will need to be re-lit once the home can be re-occupied. Most modern stoves/ovens, furnaces, and fire places have electronic ignition or igniters and do not need to be relit prior to use. Learn were the shut offs to you gas supply is located (Meter or tank) and educate yourself and others in your family how to shut them off. For most homes the gray colored gas meter will have a pipe coming from the curb (buried at least 2 ft.) carrying the gas to the meter and a pipe running to the ground that will enter the home on one of the exterior walls. Once located, the gas line shut off will generally be on the pipe line coming to the meter from the curb.

This valve will look like a brass spool valve with a tab standing out from the spool. This should be turned 90 degrees from vertical or in the horizontal position to shut off gas to the home. In situation where the home is fueled by an LP tank the shut off valve will be in the tank dome and may be a ¼ turn ball valve or a screw valve similar to an outdoor hose bib (water faucet). Each valve application may be different so familiarize yourself with safe and proper procedures prior to performing these precautions. A trained professional, utility employee or contractor may need to be contacted in order to familiarize you with your own home system and how it functions, but do not wait until an emergency to find someone to show you the ropes.

In the event of a storm surge, flood, or even earth quake such precautions could prevent further damage to your home caused by a gas leak and resultant fire. It might even prevent being overcome by gas fumes as you reenter your home. Advanced training in systems functionality may prevent additional non-related storm damage to your home.

One additional potential for non-storm related damage to your home would be your electrical system. It might be possible for it to sustain damage from severe weather. While it takes a Utility employee to shut current off to the home at the Mast head (Location where the lines come into the home). Most new homes do have the ability to shut off the circuit panel using the main shutoff, located in the circuit panel (many times this is the first breaker at the top or bottom of the panel, this will appear at least twice the size other circuit breakers in many cases). In some regions, building codes may also call for an exterior, electrical, main, shutoff, breakers, between the circuit board and the meter.

This is very convenient for the Local fire department in case of a home fire, but unless secured by a seal or padlock can also allow a thief to shut off power to the home in order to bypass security. While contriversial, cutting power to the home at the circuit panel, during extended evacuations, may be a viable option. It is probably lower in priority that the other utilities, but if there is a large windblown objects that strikes the exterior wall or you home an electrical line can be damaged in the wall, causing an ark and resultant fire at this location, especially if the object happens to be metal. In most cases of flood, the utility company will shut electricity off as a main distribution switch to prevent emergency workers from coming in contact with live lines. But do not assume this is the case without first contacting the utility prior to entering your home, after a natural or manmade disaster

Extreme caution should be used when reenergizing the main circuit to your home after a natural disaster due to potential damage to your wiring. Never stand in front of the main circuit panel when activating the main shut-off to the on position. Use a protected stance, off to one side of the panel with as much of your body away from any potential electrical fire ball that may form if a large ark occurs due to a power surge in the panel.

Please consult your utility or a professional electrician if you have any questions about shutting your power off to your entire home and prior to re-energizing the home if you have any concerns, this article is for educational purposes and is by no means an all-encompassing manual.

Many people have returned home to a natural disaster to see their home in ruins due to damage that occurred from non-related storm damage that could have been prevented by following a few simple steps to insure that damage to the systems of their home that we take for granted in normal times. Please do your homework so this.

We have taken time today to explore 3 of the systems in your home that may fail or cause potential damage to your home due to a natural or manmade disaster but this is not all inclusive as there may be other sources that I may have over looked that may be unique to our own situation such as solar array and batteries, Exterior wood furnaces, water or steam heat to your home just to mention a few. Making all of the systems of your home as inert as possible prior to bugging out may prevent additional non-storm related damage occurring to your home in your absence.

In summary, it is prudent to be knowledgeable about the main utility systems of your home and how they can be de-energized or shut off in case of an emergency. The main systems we have discussed today all allow us to live in relative ease and comfort compared to our ancestors of less than 100 years ago, but they also have the potential to cause harm to our property or loved ones if they are not properly shut down in times of emergency evacuations.

Electricity, Gas, and water when properly controlled are truly a blessing but when they are not contained or controlled in their proper infrastructure, can lead to additional damage to our home should they be left unchecked during a disaster. With proper knowledge these modern conveniences can be shut off or disconnected in such a way that they will remain in a contained and controlled manner that will allow our homes escape unintended damage that can easily be contained with proper education.

by Anonymous

Bug Out Bag Checklist | Survival Prepper Gear Recommendations

by Urban Nomad

These days, “survivalism” has come to mean preparing for great events like nuclear holocaust or total government collapse. But disaster may come on a much more personal level. Individuals can suffer catastrophe as surely as nations can.

When they do, it can be even more distressing because individuals feel alone in their suffering. I am talking about personal financial ruin and homelessness. Thousands of people across North America, indeed the world, have already experienced it following bankruptcies and foreclosures.

Whole families have been evicted from their homes, some quite forcibly. We see dozens of tent cities appearing across America, and more people ordering storage containers to live in. What we don’t see are the “hidden homeless” – those forced to survive by couch-surfing or moving back in with family.

If 47 + million Americans now live below the poverty line, that means 47 + million who are either homeless or in imminent danger of becoming so. And the number is still growing.

When I lost my own job a while ago, I was not overly concerned. I had enough savings to live on for over a year. Then the economy self-destructed. It became exceedingly difficult to score a job interview, let alone an actual job.

As the months of unemployment dragged on, my savings dwindled until I was forced for the very first time to consider homelessness as a real possibility.

What would I do if worse came to worst? How would I live? Not being a “rugged” or “street-smart” person at all, I knew from the outset that I could not follow the prevailing wisdom of living as the homeless do and trying to blend in with them.

Sleeping in bus shelters, eating from dumpsters, and staying in homeless shelters was not for me. I feel that joining the homeless population, as many recommend, severely limits your options, especially if you hold out any hope of ever rejoining society.

My only survival experience comes from camping and backpacking. I’ve survived for days or weeks with just the supplies on my back. So I tried to adopt that same knowledge to an urban environment, envisioning a new kind of “home-free” lifestyle.

I prefer to call it “distributed living” or being an “urban nomad” because it lets you have most of life’s necessities, just not all in one place. It’s based on the backpacking model of carrying everything you need with you and being self-sufficient.

It does require some resources and preparation. A plan like this must be undertaken before you actually become homeless when you still have some money and credit to draw on.

Fortunately, homelessness is more easily anticipated than some other disasters. You often can see it coming months in advance. But even those who do may prefer to live in denial. You may think it cannot happen to you.

But it has already happened to thousands who thought it could never happen to them either.

Nobody plans to end up in a homeless encampment. But lately, this is where more and more of the former middle-class are landing. Even many famous celebrities have had periods of homelessness.

If you’re one of the lucky few who has nothing to worry about financially, remember that poverty is not the only cause of homelessness. Things like chemical spills, radiation leaks, brush fires, mudslides, arson, water main breaking, and civil unrest could all force you from your home as surely as mounting debt can.

Natural disasters can strike anyone at any time. Hurricane Katrina rendered an entire city’s population homeless within hours. So have tornadoes in America’s heartland and nuclear meltdown in Japan. In such situations, people with vehicles and bug out bags ready will be survivors.

Everyone else will be refugees. With that in mind, the following suggestions should be helpful to many, whether facing imminent homelessness or not. They can also be used in partial disaster scenarios where much of society still functions, with only some residents being displaced.

WHERE TO FIND SHELTER

Obviously, this is the main problem faced by the homeless. Those who stay in the city are restricted by laws against putting up any kind of temporary shelter. This is why the homeless are so often seen huddling in doorways, alcoves, tunnels, etc.

Many cities have outlawed sleeping outdoors, which gives police the power to harass anyone they see lying down with their eyes closed. In fact, as long as you can be seen by anyone at night, your safety is at risk.

Homeless shelters may be no better. Filled with drugs and mental illness, they can be more dangerous than the streets, and many transients know enough to avoid them. Similar problems exist in tent cities. Diseases and parasites can easily spread when many people, all with poor hygiene, live close together.

Wooded areas appear safer and can be found throughout cities in the form of ravines, forests, valleys, and parks. Some homeless build shelters there using tarps, plywood, cardboard boxes, or whatever else they can find. This may work for a while.

But authorities keep tabs on these encampments and sooner or later come to take them down. Also, any shelter can be a target for thieves and squatters when you’re not there. Its mere presence during the day tells everyone that a homeless person is living there.

I get around these problems by using a relatively inexpensive “pop-up “camouflage dome tent found online. A pop-up tent can be set up and taken down extremely fast, with very little effort. The idea is to find a secluded area in the woods or a local park, put up the tent at sunset, and then take it down again at or before sunrise the next morning.

There is no campsite for anyone to find because it does not exist during the day. This is also known as stealth camping and many long-distance cyclists use it to avoid staying in motels. They camp on public or private land and take off before anyone knows they were there.

Your safety will come from being totally hidden. For anyone to see you sleeping at night, they would have to enter the forest after dark, leave the path at the right spot, and see through your camouflage. Even in broad daylight, a camo tent amid foliage is hard to spot.

I have spent several nights in city parks using this method and haven’t yet been detected. A tent is one of the best possible temporary shelters you can use and gives a sense of security, even if it is mostly psychological. It does need a relatively flat, clear area of ground to be set up, so scout locations before you need them and clear them of debris before nightfall.

An even smaller shelter that fits practically anywhere is the bivy sack– essentially a zippered bag just large enough for your body, made of waterproof, breathable material. Some fold down to the size of a water bottle. A bivy will keep you dry and sheltered but won’t have room for anything else, like changing clothes. Some come with a framework that holds the fabric away from your face for some breathing room.

Satellite images on Google Maps are great for finding dense woods in your area. You want areas that are more “wild” and overgrown, not those which are obviously mowed and well maintained by the parks department(though if you are very diligent about always taking your tent down at sunrise, you should have no problems either way).

Find spots that are totally hidden from both the trail and the street. At the same time, they should not be too far from places you want to go during the day. Eventually, you will have memorized a few ideal spots around the city and can rotate between them so that you never camp in the same place too long.

I use a heavy camouflage tarp as a groundsheet, protecting the tent floor from sharp debris. This can double as a cover for your gear, keeping it dry and hidden in the forest while you go about your daily business.

Do not try to weather a serious storm in a tent. At such times, train stations, bus stations, and airports are better choices. They are open24 hours a day and are designed for people to wait in, with ample seating, bathrooms, snack bars, and sometimes wi-fi.

In bad weather, some people will be sleeping in their seats or on the floor due to transit delays, and you can blend in with them. Keep a travel book from the library across your chest or some old boarding passes sticking out of your pocket.

If you are in an airport with multiple terminals, change terminals every so often. Lingering in one place too long may attract the attention of security(though I have heard of one woman living for months at the airport before anyone caught on). Hospital waiting rooms may be almost as good.

PRACTICAL CLOTHING

As an urban nomad, pick your outfit very carefully. It must not only protect you from the elements and carry what you need it to carry but also fit into an urban setting without looking odd. In my opinion, black should be the color of all your items, including bags.

Black looks right at home in the city, can go longer between washings without looking dirty, makes your bags and pockets look smaller despite being packed with stuff, and will render you practically invisible at night.

My all-black outfit consists of:

• waterproof hiking shoes
• paratrooper or cargo pants (lots of pockets)
• alternate pair of waterproof pants
• turtleneck
• hoodie sweater
• expedition vest filled with pockets
• waterproof coat with hood
• baseball cap with built-in LEDs (like the Panther Vision power cap, for hands-free lighting at night)

Add to this a week’s worth of clean socks and underwear, as well as duplicate pants and hoodie so you’ll still have something to wear when doing laundry. In cold weather, I add wool socks, thermal insoles, wool turtleneck, wool long underwear, waterproof mitts, and a balaclava.

BAGS AND BACKPACKS

Huge packs made for backpacking may look odd in the city. I use a large size army surplus ALICE pack to carry bulky items such as sleeping bag and sleeping pad, with a tent strapped to the outside.

Choose a backpack that places the weight on your hips, not your shoulders, as the ALICE does.

Urban commuter bags and messenger bags also work well for the city. You should be able to carry everything yourself when you need to. At other times, leave some of it stored or hidden and carry only what you need for that day.

As backpackers know, the level of fitness required to carry everything you need on your back is not inconsiderable. So get in shape.

A compression sack may help fit everything in. Used by the army, this is a sack meant to be carried inside your pack.

Fill it with compressible items (usually sleeping bag and clothes), then squeeze everything down, usually by sitting on it. At the same time, tighten all the straps around the sack. It will retain its smaller size until opened again.

HOW TO KEEP CLEAN

Besides clothing, this is the other area that gives homeless people away. Though cities are filled with public bathrooms, it is hard to find one private enough to do anything more than use the toilet and wash your hands.

So I recommend carrying a collapsible pail (found at camping stores) and a magnetic mirror (from a school supply store or dollar store).

Collapsible pails fold down flat to take up very little space in your pack. Fill one with warm water from the sink and bring it into one of the stalls. Set the pail atop the toilet tank or hang it from something if possible. Stick your magnetic mirror to the stall wall and use the pail as your sink. Now you can shave, brush teeth, and scrub your armpits in relative privacy.

Avoid bathrooms frequented by the homeless which tend to be the filthiest and most dangerous (eg. those in subways, public squares, certain restaurants, etc.). Clean, even elegant restrooms can be found in upscale shopping centers, colleges, theatres, airports, office buildings… places the homeless generally avoid. In hot weather, it may be possible to bathe in the same lakes and rivers where people go swimming.

When only a hot shower will do, visit a gym, YMCA, or university athletic center for the day, all of which have well-appointed locker rooms. Fitness centers on college campuses may just be the cheapest, cleanest and safest, and are usually open to the public.

A year’s membership will likely cost less than one month of rent and may include perks like free wi-fi, towel service, and a locker. It also provides a place to work out, rest, and socialize. Keeping suit clothes in your locker will allow you to go for job interviews. Beaches and campgrounds are other places to look for showers.

The travel section of dollar stores is a good place to pick up lightweight hygiene products like mini shampoo, mouthwash, and toothpaste. Don’t forget plastic containers for your soap and toothbrush, and pillboxes to carry Aspirin, vitamins, and any medication you need.

I keep all toiletries in a mesh bag which lets them air out after use. Replace your regular towel with a small, super-absorbent one from a backpacking store. A battery-powered travel razor will let you shave just about anywhere, any time.

Get one that runs on AA batteries as opposed to a plug-in rechargeable. Look for any way to save space, for instance using a bottle of camping soap also as dishwashing liquid and shampoo.

Facial cleansing cloths, wet naps, and hand sanitizer can keep you clean without water. If given any at a restaurant, save them until needed. Use those wet naps on your armpits and groin if necessary, where bacteria flourish. Use a high SPF sunscreen to avoid the telltale sunburn that many homeless people have.

And if the look suits you, shave your head and forget about all the maintenance that comes with having hair.

Always practice good hygiene and grooming, not just for your own health but to keep blending in with civilized society. If you look and smell like a bum, you will find many doors closed to you.

FINDING FOOD

The homeless survivalist does not have the option of storing food long-term or buying in bulk. You can only stockpile what you can carry – which amounts to maybe a week’s worth of sustenance at most. Peanut butter is an excellent choice, being easy to carry and eat, high in calories and protein, and needing no refrigeration.

Trail mix is another. There’s a lot of energy in nuts and seeds, and most of these mixes now come in resealable bags. Think like a backpacker, keeping heavy items like canned goods to a minimum and removing any unnecessary packaging from foods to make them lighter.

Dried (dehydrated) foods are the lightest. Foods that are simple, won’t spoil quickly, and require little to no cooking are well suited for the urban nomad: think beef jerky, granola bars, raisins and other dried fruits, corn chips, banana chips, buns, bagels, raisin bread, peanuts, instant soups, etc.

Again, dollar stores are good places to procure these items cheaply. Because your diet is sure to drop in quality, take a multivitamin daily as well.

Carry your food in a reusable cloth shopping bag and you will simply look as though you’ve just been grocery shopping. Also, keep a length of rope in this bag for hanging it from a tree when in the forest. Never keep food in your tent or your pockets at night, especially in city parks teeming with raccoons.

You should still have some means of cooking food. Needless to say, a big open fire in the woods would give away your presence. My personal choice was a Jet boil propane stove, with an Emberlit stove as a backup.

The Jet boil may be the fastest, most efficient means of boiling water outside, making it good for preparing instant foods and purifying water.

The Emberlit stove is a wood stove. It folds flat, taking up almost no space in a pack, and its fuel is essentially free. It lets you cook with a very small fire well suited to stealth camping.

Look into the ultra-light, compact kitchen utensils that backpackers use. Such products are designed to fit inside each other and take up minimum space. I fit my two stoves, fuel canisters, two bowls, pot, mug, cutlery, can opener, and even a Steripen water purifier into a bag less than 9” wide by 11” tall.

Cities usually have places to fish. Take advantage of this free food source by carrying a compact fishing rod. The smallest rods fold down almost to the size of a pen. For tackle, all you really need are a couple of floats, some hooks, sinkers, and a lure or two, all of which will fit in the palm of your hand.

Add a package of scented Power bait, or some similar product, to always have bait on hand. Look for live bait beneath fallen and rotting logs, or use pieces of food like bread or corn.

I’ve heard you can cook and eat practically anything that walks on land or flies. But be very careful with plants and eat only those you can positively identify as safe. (The color illustrations of plants in the pocket version of The SAS Survival Guide can help with this.)

FINDING WATER

This should be the least of your worries. Drinking water is readily found throughout cities. You should carry at least one 1L water bottle and get in the habit of topping it up every time you come to a tap or drinking fountain. Once you get used to water, you need never pay money for drinks again.

In the woods, large rivers are the preferred water source and you’ll want to camp near one if possible. A fast-moving stream will be cleaner than a pool of standing water. Of course, any water drawn from such a source must first be purified, just like in the wilderness. That means boiled, filtered, or treated with tablets or UV light.

Water purification tablets (easily found at camping stores) are the easiest way to treat water without additional apparatus. River water should never be your first choice for drinking but is good to have nearby when you run out of water collected from the city. Remember that almost all purification methods will remove the biological pathogens but not the chemical pollutants.

If rain is forecast, leave your collapsible pail outside to collect it. This water will not have to be purified.

INTERNET

Internet access is essential even when homeless. It is how you will look for jobs, send resumes, learn survival tips, and keep in contact with the wider world. You may even use it to earn money directly, using something like Amazon Mechanical Turk, or to offer your goods and services on eBay or Craigslist (the “gigs” section of Craigslist contains short-term odd jobs that pay cash).

Under normal circumstances, this would hardly be enough to live on. But without rent or utilities to pay, the economics of a nomadic lifestyle is somewhat different.

Fortunately, there are more and more places to use the Internet for free, especially if you can provide your own laptop, iPad or netbook. Find out all the free wi-fi zones in your vicinity. There will be some in places you never knew or expected.

Large district libraries and reference libraries can be ideal. There you can find computers, cubicles, outlets to plug into, and some portable chairs to sit in all day. (Note: When using public wi-fi, always use a Virtual Private Network or VPN, like the free service Hotspot Shield, when entering passwords.)

The online environment looks the same whether you are homeless or not, and so can be a source of comfort and consistency as your living conditions change. When immersed in online activities, it almost doesn’t matter where you are.

Even a homeless person can spend the day playing online games, watching shows, listening to music, writing a blog, and reading the news, much like a normal person would.

If you have the need and the money, consider a rugged computer like the Panasonic Toughbook. Able to withstand drops and freezing temperatures, with a waterproof keyboard that glows in the dark, this laptop line is practically built for homelessness.

RADIO

You should have a radio, like any survivalist. The lightest might be something like an armband radio for joggers, with readout showing the time and an alarm. Use it to check weather reports daily, and choose your attire and shelter areas accordingly.

TELEPHONE

Cellphones make having your own phone number as an urban nomad very easy. Remember to charge it and your other wireless devices whenever you come across an available outlet.

MAIL

If you need to receive mail, one choice is renting a PO Box. There are also services that can provide you with a real street address if you want people to think you have one. You will get an address like “99 Paladin Street #1” where the number actually refers to your box.

This is useful when you have to give your home address to obtain services.

This is the essence of “distributed living” – your shelter in one area, your shower in another, your mailbox in yet another. All are components of your “home”, you just need to travel a bit to get to each one.

TRANSPORTATION

Your own two feet may serve as your primary mode of transport. For this reason, don’t skimp on your footwear and make sure it fits perfectly.

If you can still afford gas, auto repairs, parking, and insurance, then, by all means, keep your vehicle as both transportation and shelter. If not, consider a bicycle as a substitute. Having a bike makes everything seem much closer than if you were walking, and will expand your range considerably.

I already cycle everywhere and now prefer it to the often poor and overcrowded public transit system.

Add a Bob Yak trailer, or almost any child bicycle trailer, and you can bring all your survival supplies with you. Some child trailers turn into strollers when detached from the bike. You can then push your belongings along the sidewalk in something a little more stylish than a shopping cart.

WINTER

Not everyone will have concerns about winter, depending on where they live. For me, the problem of surviving a Canadian winter without a heated shelter must be treated with deadly seriousness. Many homeless people die on the streets of cold countries every year.

Throughout Europe, we have just seen how extreme cold can strike even in unlikely places and kill hundreds without warning. Without going into all the details of winter survival, here are some tips:

You must test out your cold-weather gear before trusting your life to it. For example, camp out in the backyard during a deep freeze. Winterized sleeping bags have temperature ratings but their effectiveness varies depending on the user’s own body heat, metabolism, and clothing.

Sit in the park for several hours in your full winter outfit to see if it’s enough. The amount of insulation needed for sitting still in the cold is greater than what people typically wear for dashing from one heated structure to another. Dress in layers and always cover your head, even when sleeping. Wool is arguably the best material as it insulates so well, even when wet.

A sleeping pad is just as essential as a sleeping bag. This item is easy to overlook, but without it you will get cold no matter how great your sleeping bag is.

The ground has a way of conducting the heat right out of a warm body. (For the same reason, never sit directly on the ground without a thermal cushion like hunters use or some such insulating barrier.) The warmest sleeping pads are also the bulkiest and cannot be carried inconspicuously.

I chose to focus on the smaller self-inflating pads and get the one with the highest ‘R-value (insulation rating) I could find. Without a sleeping pad, you will have to sleep on cardboard or newspapers just like the homeless do, or use pine boughs when in the wilderness.

From what I’ve seen, gadgets like electric sleeping bags and propane space heaters are not practical or effective. And building a fire is usually out of the question. So you will be relying on your own body heat for warmth. Don’t lose it by leaving your shelter at night. If you have to relieve yourself, use a bottle instead. Study the survival tactics of winter campers and arctic explorers.

Anything that does not take well to freezing – laptops, cell phones, water bottles – should share the sleeping bag with you, down near your feet. Some winter sleeping bags have extra room at the bottom for this purpose.

If you fill your water bottle with hot water before retiring, it will help warm you. Use extra layers of shelter if you have them. For example, using a bivy sack inside a tent may seem redundant but it will increase your bag’s effectiveness against the cold. So will using a tent inside a larger structure.

FURTHER READING

The U.S. Army Survival Handbook adequately covers the wilderness side of homeless survival. It takes into account the soldier’s need for stealth and concealment when stuck in enemy territory.

Where other survival books tell how to remain visible and attract the attention of search parties, this one shows how to conceal your presence, move stealthily over terrain, and to build fires and shelters so that they cannot be spotted by the enemy.

(For our purposes, “enemy” can refer to anyone – police, park rangers, security guards, neighborhood watch, etc. – who tend to make life extra difficult for the homeless.) This no-nonsense guide also has surprising and innovative ways to treat your own injuries and illnesses in the field using common materials.

CONCLUSION

Thanks to odd jobs, credit cards and help from relatives, I remain housed for now. But the threat of homelessness still looms large. My debts are such that I do not know exactly where I will be living three months from now.

But even if homelessness never strikes, I won’t regret the time and money spent preparing for it. The increased confidence and peace of mind have been worth it. I know that, whether housed or not, life will go on.

Even the idea of spending winter without a permanent shelter is no longer unthinkable, and that is an amazing thing. Preparing for homelessness has incidentally prepared me for other scenarios, like the furnace breaking down or a sudden evacuation. And I can go camping or backpacking at a moment’s notice.

Homelessness has to be one of the gloomiest things to think about, let alone prepare for. But realize that not thinking or preparing will make the reality of it worse. If you do find yourself out on the street, having a plan of where to go, what to do, and what to take with you can make all the difference.

If it helps, don’t think of yourself as homeless but as a nomad practicing an alternative lifestyle. Without such an attitude or plan, you will start to resemble the typical bums who wander without direction or purpose. Who have nowhere to go, nothing to do, and nothing to hope for. Homelessness does not have to look like that.

Develop the skills of the urban nomad and practice distributed living. Keep your basic needs met and your mind clear, and you can always live a dignified existence whatever your situation may be.

Stealth Camping Tips

This video has some great tips on stealth camping that also apply to homeless survival…

Please share your thoughts, comments and homeless survival kit ideas in the comments below… thanks.

by David

There is no shortage of products or systems to choose from, but which one’s are the best investments? I’ve been doing a lot of research into the packable water filtration systems currently on the market and I’d like to share my findings and opinions.

In this post, I’d like to try to cover which products successfully filter/purify water of toxic industrial chemicals, viruses, bacteria’s, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, and sediments, and which do not. Also, some of the pros and cons of each variety.

So, here we go…

Product Group 1A: Katadyn Hiker / Hiker Pro / Vario

These pump style filters have found their way into many bug out bags, and for good reason. They’re simple and effective. There are very few differences between the models listed above, but I’ll highlight the differences here.

Hiker and Hiker Pro $50 – $75 – Fact Sheet / Pro Fact Sheet

The Hiker and Hiker Pro are both decent backpacking filters and they are both fairly reasonably priced if you shop around. In fact, I own the Katadyn Hiker and I’ve successfully used it to pump my canteens and hydration pack full of pond water with no ill effects.

The products are compact, lightweight, easy to use, and relatively effective, but you assume some risk because the filter media is only capable of capturing particles of 0.3 microns average size or larger. They do leave a slight tinge to the water and if the water is particularly nasty there can be some mild odors or taste left in the water.

It probably won’t kill you, but there are better options out there so that in the event you do have to drink water that is potentially contaminated with a virus you won’t contract it, especially post SHTF when treatment will be harder to come by.

• •Filtration Quality: 0.3 Microns (bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments)
  •Filtration Volume: 200gal / 750L (Pro 300gal / 1150L) 1-3 people
  •Filtration Media: replaceable glass fiber media with an activated carbon core
  •Filtration Flow: +/- 1 quart / liter per minute
  •Filtered Turbidity: Mildly Tinged / Mostly Clear
  •Filtered Aroma: Very Mild
  •Filtered Taste: Mostly Pure

Vario $75-100 – Fact Sheet

• •Filtration Quality: 0.3 Microns (bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments)
  •Filtration Volume: 528gal / 2000L 1-4 people
  •Filtration Media: replaceable glass fiber media with an activated carbon core
  •Filtration Flow: +/- 2 quart / liter per minute (1q/lpm in long-life mode)
  •Filtered Turbidity: Slightly Tinged / Almost Clear
  •Filtered Aroma: Slight or None
  •Filtered Taste: Mostly Pure

With the exception of volume, these filters are almost all identical. If you are going to purchase one of these, purchase the most inexpensive version because no improvement in particle size is gained by purchasing the upgrades.

The replacement filters (Hiker / Vario) are reasonably priced to stock up on and easily replaceable simply by unscrewing the top discharge lid, disposing of it, and installing a new one (don’t throw it away though because you can drill a hole in the bottom, clean out the charcoal, and reinstall to use the filter system as an unfiltered pump unit as I’ll discuss later).

In the end, these are decent products, but make sure you stock up on the filter cartridges if you intend to use it for an extended period of time or buy a Sawyer (if you’re sold on Katadyn’s brand name then upgrade to one of their endurance series products for greater filtration volume).

Product Group 1B: Katadyn Pocket / Combi / Expedition

These pump style filters are designed to support multiple people (anywhere from 1 – 20 depending on variety) or for a longer period of time. They range from on the expensive side to outrageous, but if you have the money they’re awesome. There are some variations to discuss though.

Pocket +/- $270 – Fact Sheet

• •Filtration Quality: 0.2 Microns (bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments, and some viruses)
  •Filtration Volume: 13,200gal / 50,000L
  •Filtration Media: Replaceable Ceramic
  •Filtration Flow: +/- 1 quart / liter per minute
  •Filtered Turbidity: None
  •Filtered Aroma: None
  •Filtered Taste: Pure

Combi +/- $225 – Fact Sheet

• •Filtration Quality: 0.2 Microns (bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments, and some viruses)
  •Filtration Volume: Ceramic 13,200gal / 50,000L, Charcoal 105gal / 400L
  •Filtration Media: Replaceable Ceramic / Replaceable Activated Charcoal
  •Filtration Flow: +/- 1 quart / liter per minute
  •Filtered Turbidity: None
  •Filtered Aroma: None
  •Filtered Taste: Pure

Expedition +/- $1200 – Fact Sheet

• •Filtration Quality: 0.2 Microns (bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments, and some viruses)
  •Filtration Volume: 26,400gal / 100,000L
  •Filtration Media: Replaceable Ceramic
  •Filtration Flow: +/- 4 quarts / 4 liters per minute
  •Filtered Turbidity: None
  •Filtered Aroma: None
  •Filtered Taste: Pure

There are some variations here, but with the exception of volume and flow, the pocket and Combi filters are almost identical, the expedition is more of a camp filter, but I suppose you could pack it.

The replacement filters (Pocket / Combi Cer – Car / Expedition) are fairly expensive, but the volume they’re capable of makes up for the cost if you plan to use the filter this much. These are really great products, but the initial cost will be prohibitive to people on tighter budgets.

Product Group 2A: Sawyer Point One Biological Filter Variations – Print Brochure

These filters are sold as a squeeze, gravity, and pump style with different adapters and configurations. The filters are Non-replaceable sealed element hollow fiber membrane (kidney dialysis machine technology).

But they’re guaranteed for 1 million gallons (I’m not sure that the guarantee will work for you post-collapse though) and are touted as an indefinite use filter by the use of periodic backflushing and maintenance. If the filter ever does happen to break on you though, they’re very affordable and stocking up on them won’t be too difficult. Let’s delve in.

Point Zero Series $20 – $220 (average $50) – flow rate report – microbiological test report

• •Filtration Quality: 0.1 Microns (absolute) (bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments, and some viruses)
  •Filtration Volume: Indefinite (yes indefinite with maintenance back flush and care)
  •Filtration Media: Non-Replaceable Hollow Fiber Membrane
  •Filtration Flow: 4 quarts / 4 liters per minute Squeezed or up to 5 gallons per minute at max inlet 40psi
  •Filtered Turbidity: None
  •Filtered Aroma: None
  •Filtered Taste: Pure

These filters are excellent. They’re lightweight, easy to use, filter down to extremely small micron size, and are extremely inexpensive and reliable. They do not have replaceable media, but they are considered indefinite use as long as you regularly backflush the filter with the included backflush syringe and prevent it from freezing with water inside.

If you do happen to break it, they’re so affordable you can buy backups. These filters really only have 1 drawback in my opinion, and that is due to their hollow membrane pore construction they do not filter out and dissolved solids or solutions. That is to say that they cannot filter out anything that is completely dissolved into the water.

Product Group 2B: Sawyer Point Zero Two Biological Purifier Variations

These purifiers are sold as a squeeze, gravity, and pump style with different adapters and configurations. The purifiers are Non-replaceable sealed element hollow fiber membrane (kidney dialysis machine tech).

But they guaranteed for 1 million gallons and are touted as an indefinite use filter by the use of periodic backflushing and maintenance. If the filter ever does happen to break on you though, they are fairly affordable and stocking up on a small supply is doable.

Point Zero Two Series $140 – flow rate report – microbiological test report

• •Purification Quality: 0.02 Microns (bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments, and all of the most common viruses CDC: Scroll all the way down)
  •Purification Volume: Indefinite (yes indefinite with maintenance back flush and care)
  •Purification Media: Non-Replaceable Hollow Fiber Membrane
  •Purification Flow: 4 quarts / 4 liters per minute Squeezed or up to 5 gallons per minute at max inlet 40psi
  •Purification Turbidity: None
  •Purification Aroma: None
  •Purification Taste: Pure

If you haven’t noticed the above facts, these are actually not considered filters anymore, but purifiers. These purifiers are capable of removing every harmful thing (that is not in dissolution) from the water.

Again, the only drawback is that due to the hollow fiber technology, these purifiers do NOT remove anything that is completely dissolved into the water. They pass everything that is smaller than .02 Microns in size without absorption.

Product Group 2A & 2B both function in exactly the same manner, but the Point Zero Two variation has smaller pore sizes. Both of them utilize an ABSOLUTE micron measurement which is much more stringent than the AVERAGE micron measurement. This basically means that absolutely NO particles, biology, or vectors of the specified micron size or larger will be found in the processed water.

The different variations of these products are the same core filter or purifier with different peripherals included in the package. For example, the SP129 package contains one Point One filter, one 1L collection pouch, and a mouthpiece valve for $45 while the SP131 contains one Point One filter, 3 collection pouches, a backflush syringe, and a mouthpiece valve for $45, and the SP181 All In One package contains 1 Point One filter, 2 mouthpiece valves, 1 faucet adapter hose, 1 backflush syringe, 1 1L collection pouch, and a bucket adapter kit for $60. Here’s a view of their water products.

At the end of the day, in my opinion, the best investment would be to purchase both a Sawyer Zero Point Two purifier and the Katadyn Hiker Pro along with some extra filters for the Katy.

The reasoning is that while some chemicals can slip by all but the most advanced filtration and purification techniques, a glass fiber / activated charcoal filter pump unit used as a post-filter would help to capture some chemicals by absorption while the Sawyer purifier will function to eliminate all of the smaller non dissolute “badies” such as HEV/HAV/SARS.

The sawyer will benefit and accommodate the pressurization that the pump filter will add to the line and this will speed your collection up as the drop tube can be easily dropped into the water source, the pump outlet can be connected to the Sawyer very easily, and the Sawyer can be adapted to a hydration pack drink tube so you never really have to drop your kit to refill your bladder if you’re traveling with a buddy.

If you are trying to collect water in an environment that is potentially hostile you can just use the sawyer collection pouches to grab the water and take it with you to purify it in a safer environment. Just bear in mind that the Katy media would need replacement after about 200 gallons (you could probably get more since it’s used as a post filter).

Most filters cannot remove toxic chemicals due to the dwell time required to absorb them onto the charcoal media. In fact, even distillation does not remove all chemicals because some exhibit the same properties of evaporation and boiling/condensation points.

Choose your water source more wisely, and/or use the old fashioned method of digging a hole a few feet from your source water and collect from the water that has flowed into the hole. The Katy is mainly used as a pump, but the filter can help to improve taste that the Sawyer may not. You can refer to the CDC for further information on filtration properties and effectiveness here.

My personal configuration currently is a combination Katadyn Hiker Basic / Sawyer Point One filter connected in series so that the Sinker/Screen and Bobber are connected to the inlet of the Sawyer Point One filter, the Sawyer outlet is connected to the Hiker inlet, the Hiker outlet is connected to a quick disconnect Camelbak adapter and the QD connects to my Camelbak drinking tube after removing the bite valve.

Connected in this manner I am using the Katadyn prescreen and bobber to screen the water out going into the Sawyer. Since the Sawyer is back-flushable I use it to capture all sediment, bacteria, and protozoa prior to the Katadyn Glass Fiber / Charcoal unit to extend the life of the filter. I am using the Glass Fiber / Charcoal filter to absorb any dissolved contaminants that the Sawyer passes through which can help to improve any taste issues that the Sawyer may miss, and I’m using the pump unit to speed the process by pressurizing the line.

An added benefit to using this system is that by slightly pressurizing my Camelbak’s bladder I can allow the filtered water to backflush the Sawyer filter automatically and lose only 1 liter of water from my 3-liter reservoir providing me with a freshly backflushed Sawyer filter and 2.5 liters of very clean water.

Bear in mind that while this system is excellent for most water sources in the US, it does not filter our viral contaminations. I plan to upgrade the Sawyer Point One to a Point Zero Two purifier in the not too distant future.

If viral contamination is a concern you can add 4 drops of unscented bleach per liter/quart or 12 drops to a full bladder directly into the drinking tube prior to connecting the filtration system and allow the bleach 10-15 minutes of contact time in the bladder before drinking.

Now, if you remember, I recommended saving your used Katadyn filter cartridges because they can be reused in away. Allow your filter to thoroughly dry out by leaving it in the sun for a day or two. Take your used filter cartridge and turn it upside down to see a plastic circle in the center of the bottom plate. Using a 1/4″ or similar sized drill bit you can drill a hole through it.

Now, just dump out any charcoal media that you may find inside. Now find a drill bit that just fits into the outlet hole in the top of the filter cartridge and drill down through the top to clear the silt barrier that holds the charcoal in. Now, run some tap water through the inlet hole of the filter to wash out any residual charcoal or drill shavings that may still be inside.

Now reinstall the filter into your pump and cycle about a quart of fresh tap water through the filter to remove any more filtration media or shavings that may have survived your first two attempts. You now have a cartridge that can turn your Katadyn filter into a basic hand pump to use on your Sawyer indefinitely.

Warning: This is only recommended for filtration cartridges that have only ever been used as a post filter behind a Sawyer or other similar smaller micron filtration system.

If you’ve ever used a filter cartridge to directly filter contaminated water this is not recommended because bacteria and or cysts could be present on the dirty filtration media and could potentially make their way through the filter in the future.

If you want to convert a used filter of this type be sure to allow the filter to soak in a water/bleach solution of at least 1% for 24 hours, then allow the filter to thoroughly dry out in direct sunlight.