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You are here: Home / 2018 / Archives for August 2018

Archives for August 2018

Homesteading and prepping open discussion forum

August 18, 2018 M.D. Creekmore

Well, folks, it’s pouring the rain here as I write this but I’m not complaining because, well, I like the rain. It’s relaxing and most of the time it has a positive effect on my allergies. So it’s a win for me… well until I have to mow my grass which grows faster after it rains and the grass messes with my allergies… I just can’t win…

Anyways, I’ve read a few comments (on another site) that suggest that I’m getting rich running a website, and even though I wish that it were true the reality is far from it.

Below is a pic of my earnings from Amazon… most days are in the $2 to $5 range…

And here is one for my book earning for the month (for all 4 books)…

Also, keep in mind that this is from two sites! I could make more money working part time at a fast food restaurant but I continue to do it because I want to share information that I hope will help someone.

Anyways, over to you what did you do to prep this week?

Filed Under: Uncategorized

How To Compost at Home For Beginners

August 9, 2018 M.D. Creekmore

Plastic composter in a garden - filled with decaying organic mat

When you are starting life on the homestead, you quickly learn that common food and yard scraps that most people throw away can be very beneficial.

That is certainly true with composting. If you don’t know how to compost, it’s not difficult and we can guarantee it will be well worth your time and energy.

What are the benefits?

First, you are reducing waste. Estimates say that common food and yard waste make up anywhere between 25 and 50 percent of what people throw away. That means we’re using energy and fuel to transport this waste to a landfill, potentially releasing methane gas. When we don’t have to.

But it will also help your homestead. Applying compost to your soil will make your vegetables and trees very happy and help them grow. It is free fertilizer. Now, you can purchase compost from any big box retailer or nursery, but this is free. And when you have a large garden, it certainly adds up.

If you’re sold on composting but don’t know where to begin, read on.

1. Choose the right location

The location won’t necessarily make or break your compost, but there a couple points to consider to make this easier for you. One, choose a location relatively close to the house. We don’t mean one step from the back door, but when you will be taking regular trips from the house to the compost, I like to make life easier on myself.

The amount of sun won’t necessarily help or hurt your compost, but sun increases the temperature and can cause your pile to dry out. You can remedy that by watering more frequently, but it’d be easier to just choose a different location. We recommend partial shade.

2. Know what goes in a compost

As we have said, most food scraps and yard waste can go in your compost. The eligible items are generally broken down into brown material and green material. And you can probably guess what that includes.

The most common “browns” include dead leaves, pine needles, straw, hay, twigs or bark, sawdust, wood chips and pine cones. With the browns, make sure you chop them up as they tend to break down pretty slowly.

The most common “greens” include grass clippings, fresh leaves, fruits and vegetable peels, coffee grounds, melon rinds and even Christmas greenery.

Your post can be layered, one-row green, one-row brown, or mixed, where the browns and the greens are mixed together. And we recommend an equal amount of browns and greens.

3. It’s easy to build

You can purchase a pre-made compost bin from a big-box retailer or Amazon. This will be the quickest and easiest way to begin.

But if you want to save money, this is something you can do yourself in little time. You generally want a wood frame and wood or wire sides. If you’re looking for free materials, four pallets and some type of twine or wire will do the trick.

4. Maintaining your compost

Use a shovel or pitchfork to regularly turn your compost and mix the layers. A way that people ensure they’ve reached the entire pile is to move it into a new bin. You should turn your compost about once a month. Some do it more frequently, some less. But that is a good average number.

You also need to make sure the compost is kept moist, especially in the dry summer months. We recommended a shadier area so you don’t have to water as much, but you will still need to water in most climates.

5. Using your compost

Now that you’ve put this work into your compost, it’s time to make it work for you. If you have kept a regular schedule of turning the compost, your compost will probably be ready in three or four months depending on your climate and the time of year.

Once your compost is ready, you can now add it to the soil of your vegetable gardens, trees or other plants and shrubbery. Just how much compost you should add will depend on your soil, but we generally recommend adding about one to two inches to the soil.

If you follow these easy and practical steps, you will be composting in no time. And you will be happy you did.

If you want even more in-depth prepping and homesteading information then please check out my best selling 176-page book “How To Survive The End Of The World As We Know It – Gear, Skills, and Related Know-How. It’s available in paperback and well as Amazon Kindle.

You might also like:

  • Start Saving Today and Live Your Homesteading Dream Tomorrow
  • Smart Spending for Preppers Looking for Financial Freedom
  • How Do You Handle Emergency Food Storage?

Filed Under: Homesteading

Homesteading 101 – Prospective Homestead Priorities

August 8, 2018 M.D. Creekmore

by Patient Momma

LOG HOME HOMESTEAD

I have heard of and read some sad accounts of people purchasing property to begin their dream of homesteading, only to find thousands of dollars of expenses facing them. I’ve watched some of those ‘Homestead Rescue’ programs on TV and wondered what in the world were those people thinking?  This article is based on the premise that you’ve decided to get out of the city, to purchase some land with an existing on-grid residence and start homesteading in the country.

Life Style Change

Moving to the country and establishing a homestead is a major lifestyle change for the entire family.  I strongly suggest a family meeting and the reality of the situation be discussed before you even think about looking at property. If you have to work outside the homestead, how long will the commute take?  If children are part of the family visit the appropriate schools and find out if there is bus service to the prospective homestead or decide if you want to homeschool.  If your spouse is not in total agreement with to moving to the country you might be better off just getting yourself some acreage with a hunting cabin for a BOL.

Are you healthy and physically strong enough to do the work a homestead requires?  How far are the closest gas station, grocery store and doctor?   What are the roads like?  The further away from civilization you get, the worse the roads are.  Many country roads are gravel and oil or just gravel or dirt with blind curves and hills.  The countryside is dark…there are no street lights, no painted lines or curbs. Just realize that you leave convenience behind when you move to a country homestead. The road I have to travel is dangerous in the daytime and deadly at night.

When You Decide to Make the Move to the Country

You have been looking for your country property for a while and you made the effort to look at the property in person, not just on the internet. You have finally narrowed your choices down to two places you think would make a good homestead. This article is about taking a serious look at the homestead you are about to buy, so you can put some contingencies in your contract, if needed, to protect yourself.

No offense meant, but most city folks are somewhat oblivious to how things work and what goes on in the country on a regular basis.  Not because they are stupid; but because they are used to the city proving water, electricity, sewage, trash removal, etc.; all for a hefty fee of course.  They are also used to the landlord fixing the all the problems in their abode.  Unless folks were raised in the country, they usually don’t have any experience with well pumps, septic tanks, propane stoves/heaters, wood stoves, plus big bugs, mice, snakes and predators, etc.

Ask Questions

Is the property within city limits or is it just part of the county? It is possible to have a city mailing address but not be in city limits.  So what; why do you care?  If you are within city limits you are subject to city taxes plus all the little annoying rules; like you can’t have chickens, you can’t burn your trash, you can’t fence your property, you can’t build an outbuilding or anything without a permit, etc.  Most country properties are zoned as farm or ranch; but some are not.  You should have a list of questions the seller or the realtor needs to answer so you can make an informed decision.

If you are negotiating with a For Sale By Owner (FSBO), make sure you are familiar with the standard real estate contract for your state.  If you are purchasing a FSBO in a new state, you should consider having a real estate attorney work your contract for your protection.  Country folks are not as dumb as TV makes them out to be.

Inspect the Property

Looking at pictures on the internet is not accurate enough to base a purchasing decision on. You must have an in-person visit to see if 13 of the 15 acres advertised are up a mountain and only suitable for goats. When you see a photo of a beautiful view of a river and rolling hills, remember that the view is looking down and the advertised property has been carved out of a mountain that you have to drive up and down on a dirt or gravel road in all types of weather.

When you go to look at the homestead walk or drive the property (ATV or 4-wheel drive truck) and have the seller point out all the water sources. Is there a pond or lake? Does it flood over in the spring runoff or go dry in the summer heat? Is there a stream moving through the property; if so what is upstream and does it flood during the spring runoff?  Are there natural springs on the property or waterfalls off the hill or mountain? Is there wildlife roaming the property or is it strictly cattle pasture?

Inspect the Residence

When negotiating on the property, make sure you know the condition of the residence’s structure, roof, electrical wiring, plumbing, water well and septic system.  If you are not knowledgeable, you will need to get specific people to do these inspections as the average city home inspector, who charges $400-$700, does not do structural, wiring, pipes, wells or septic. The team of experts you need to do each inspection (structural, roof, electrical, plumbing, water well, septic) will add up to about the same cost but it would cost you more if you use a standard housing inspector plus the team of experts. These inspections can save your sanity and thousands of dollars.

Do not purchase anything without knowing the particulars of these categories. If you are purchasing a vacant property and using a realtor, insist that the realtor find out information from the seller or from public records.  The realtor is paid on commission so make s/he do some work.  If s/he cannot find the information on these critical systems, insist on the seller buying a Home Warranty Insurance Package covering all of these areas. A country package covering well and septic etc., is more expensive than the usual appliance package because they are extra riders to the basic policy.  This protects you for a year. Maybe you want the property in spite of the failures or unknowns, but at least make sure you are aware of the true condition so you know what you’re facing.

Get a Structural Inspection

If the residence is more than 15 years old, first on your priority list should be a structural inspection. Earth settles and the structure moves with it.  Sometimes older residences were built without spec and codes so determine whether the house sits on a cement slab, footers or other type of foundation. If you set a ball on the floor and it rolls across the floor that is a problem. The structural engineer will tell you what the problems are, which could be anything from foundation cracks to failed supports, sinkholes, crooked walls, warped beams, even fire damage. Sometimes the seller is not aware of the structural problems but you need to be before you sign on the dotted line.

Have the Roof Inspected

Make sure you get a reliable company to inspect your roof.  Depending on the location and age of the house it could be a lot worse than it looks. There is no substitute for an expert walking the roof for inspection. In my case the roof had to be replaced because of hail damage and the seller’s insurance paid $10,000 for the replacement.

Beware of DIY Seller Projects

A lot of country properties have homeowner DIY projects done to them; so you need to have experts look at the different things.  My brother bought a 23-year-old house only to late find it had aluminum wiring which could not handle the load of a modern home.  It cost him $15,000 to have the house rewired.

I anticipated the wiring needed updating in the 40-year old house.  I had an electrician come to inspect the wiring and give me a quote on what needed to be replaced, to install new outlets and to put in an another circuit breaker box to safely carry the additional load of newer appliances and multiple refrigerators and freezers. While he was there we found the wiring to barn was run underground from the over-loaded house circuit and without a protective PVC pipes.  The entire system for the tool shed to the barn had to be rewired to meet county code. If the work is required to meet county code, the seller usually has to pay for the update; but it is negotiable.

Inspect the Plumbing and Pipes

If your prospective home has a crawl space somebody needs to get dirty and look at the pipes and vapor barriers to see if they need fixing.  If your location gets cold snowy winters, you really need to have the plumbing pipes wrapped before you move in. It will save you from having to drip the faucets and spigots when the temps drop way down and the pipes are liable to freeze.  In my location we have very mild winters with very few nights below freezing so I decided I didn’t need every pipe in the crawl space wrapped and insulated. However, I found out I did need the exposed outdoor pipes protected and had to do that myself the day before the temperatures dropped to record lows in my area.

Check Out the Water Well

Most country homesteads use well water not city water.  Of course, you ask the seller how old is the well pump and how deep was the well drilled.  Some counties require paperwork when a well is drilled and installed; some don’t.  But checking the records in the county courthouse may give the date the well was drilled or motor last replaced, which is a big help to you.  Unfortunately, the well guy cannot stick a camera down the pipe and see if something is wrong. The well is either pumping or it isn’t.  Changing out the well pump is time-consuming and if the well guy is going to pull 100’ or 140’ of pipes to get to the motor, you might as well have the entire system replaced.   If the property does not have electric power to test the well, just assume it is not working and negotiate the price of a new pump and/or well drilling in the offer.

The more use the well gets the faster the pump wears out.  For example, if your well is used by two people for house water and washing cars it may last 10-12 years.  But if you have 5 or 6 people in your family and are additionally turning the spigots on and off by watering the garden, the animal barns, outbuildings or filling pasture water troughs from one well, the pump will wear out much faster. Depending on where you live, replacing just the well pump can run you around $1,000 to $4,000 depending on the depth of the well. Drilling a new well can cost between $3,000 to $15,000 or higher depending on your location and geology of the ground.  It’s important to be informed before you buy.

What is Your Backup for Water Delivery?

Another priority is your water backup system(s). Ask the seller if they have a backup if the electricity goes out (most well pumps run on electricity) or the pump fails.  We added two backup water systems after we moved in. Our DIY rainwater catchment system is a simple series of gutters, downspouts, and barrels. The rain rolls off the metal roofs of our outbuildings into gutters which have downspouts into 55-gallon food grade barrels. Each barrel sits up on concrete blocks and has a spigot to drain water or attach a hose.  Our redundant off-grid water system is a separate well with a Simple Pump, which is out of sight in an outbuilding.

Know the Age and Condition of the Septic Tank

The age and condition of the septic system is important to know.  The older the septic the stronger the chance of having trouble; which is something you don’t ever want to experience. The size of the septic depends on how many bathrooms, the number of people living in the home and how new the kitchen is; meaning is there a dishwasher, garbage disposal, automatic ice makers, etc. If you don’t know when the septic was last serviced, go by these fabled words: when in doubt, pump it out!  It is better if you can negotiate this action as a part of the selling contract, just like you would a termite inspection.

If the septic system is really old, it is possible the tank may be compromised. A friend purchased an older property and found out the hard way that tree roots had damaged the tank and over run the drain field. An instant $15,000 bill, which homeowners insurance may not pay unless you have a rider. The property I purchased did not have a septic tank; they had the old country system of a pipe running out to the woods.  I refused to buy the property unless they put in a septic system, which the seller did.  On average, a septic tank needs to be cleaned out every 4 or 5 years; but, if you have a house full of females, it only takes 2-3 years to fill up.

Inspect the HVAC System

If the residence has an HVAC system, have it checked out by a reputable person/firm. Just because you can feel hot or cold air coming out the registers doesn’t mean the system works properly.  A new heating/cooling system costs from $5,000 to $13,000 for the average 3 bed/2+bath house, depending on the quality you purchase.  Getting it repaired vs buying a new system can be negotiated with the seller.  When you call for a vendor inspection appointment be sure to ask what the service visit costs; because driving an hour each way to the country is not free.

Check Out the Wood Stove

Depending on the age of the wood stove it may or may not have a blower system.  It may or may not have fire bricks.  If it has tempered glass on the door, check the stuff that is holding the glass in. I say stuff because it varies by age, brand and if it meets current code. If the stove is free-standing, the stove pipe to the outside needs to be checked for cracks or holes so you don’t die in your sleep from carbon monoxide poisoning.  If the pipes are rusted they should be replaced. The insides should also be cleaned to avoid a stove fire which could burn your house down.

If the wood stove is in a fireplace, make sure the flue lining is cleaned and solid. If it has blowers have the wiring inspected and the motor cleaned. It is not very expensive to have the stove, pipes and motor serviced and it is worth it!  Depending on where you live and who your insurer is you may have to have a special rider to your policy if you have a wood stove.

Look at the Barn and Out Buildings

Does the property have an existing barn?  Does it have existing outbuildings? What condition are they in? If you are planning to farm or ranch you will need these structures.  A small metal barn can start at $20,000 and go upwards.  Building an 8’x10’ wood outbuilding will cost you around $500 for materials if you build it; more if you hire a helper.  If you buy a pre-built 10’x16’ metal shed it can run between $1800 to $3000, depending on quality.

Security of a Storm Shelter

High on your list of priorities should be a storm shelter or safe room.  Once you have been through a severe storm that rips your house apart while you cower in the bathtub with a mattress over your head, you won’t live anywhere without one.  Your location will determine whether it is a deep basement, a mid-house safe room or an outside storm shelter.

My location gets a lot of thunderstorms, which can spawn tornadoes.  The existing shelter was an outside concrete and steel framed storm shelter dug in the hillside. I also had a small basement dug as a backup.  I recently saw a new house being built near a town which had a concrete block safe room built in the middle of the house.

How Far is the Fire Department?

You should ask the seller or the realtor how far away is the nearest fire station and does it have a water truck.  There are very few fire hydrants out in the country so the fire department needs to bring the water.  Other items that are critical for country living are fire extinguishers and lots of them.  The further away from a town you are, the more fire extinguishers you should have.  I currently have about 8 scattered throughout the house and barn and I’m ordering a few more for the outbuildings. It is better to get the rechargeable ones; they cost a little more but don’t expire.

If you are buying in dry, wild fire country, you should identify methods of protecting your property.  I know people who lost a home and then rebuilt using concrete block and slate roof.  I have also read about folks who use sprinkler systems in the woods around their houses.  That old phase better-safe-than-sorry applies when you live in the country because your house could burn to the ground before the rescue/fire department/sheriff gets to you.

Backup Power Systems

Many country homes get their power from an electric cooperative via above-ground wires, aka telephone poles, which are prone to failure during any type of a storm. During storm season our power goes out, but usually for less than 48 hours.  Having a backup power system keeps everyone calm and systems working.  Again, it depends on your location on what you get.  Do you have enough sun for solar, wind for turbines or do you want to use a generator?  For short-term emergencies (+/- 3 months) we have a propane standby generator for the house and a portable generator for the barn.  The smaller outbuildings are solar powered.  We are still trying to figure out the best system or method for a long-term grid-down electrical outage.

Is There Protective Fencing?

Another item I consider a priority is fencing.  Living out in the country you are going to have loose critters; e.g., dogs, cats, goats, pigs, raccoons, armadillos, foxes, opossums, coyotes, deer and the occasional lost cow.  Those who choose to be in or near the mountains will have more dangerous critters such as wolves, big cats, bears, etc.

There are no leash laws in the country and some folks let their animals free range.  Many domestic animals roaming free are not vaccinated and wild animals carry a host of diseases.  A 5’ or 6’ agra fence will keep your family and animals safely inside your compound and most of the stray critters away from your house.

If you have deer in your area you will need an 8’ fence around the garden; a plastic deer fence will do.  A friend of mine used a couple of strands of hot wire which kept the deer out, but not the smaller critters.  At a previous home I had an 8’ plastic deer fence around my garden. One morning I looked out and saw a raccoon trying to climb the plastic fencing. The fencing swayed back and forth from the weight of the critter and the coon finally gave up and jumped off.

Around your chicken coops, I recommend a 5’ agra fence plus hot wire at 2 levels. The top-level hot wire discourages the owls, hawks and falcons from waiting for a chicken dinner, while the lower hot wire fends off the raccoons, skunks and opossums. For pigs we use 4’ agra fencing with a low-level hot wire. For goats you need strong fencing and multiple ways of locking the mischievous buggers in. Believe me; a stray goat can destroy any garden in one day!  If you run cattle or keep horses you will need 4 or 5 strand barbed wire fencing to contain them.  All this fencing costs money which adds up so if the property has existing fencing that is a plus.

Check Out the Closest Neighbors

Out in the country, the nearest neighbors might be across the road or 10 miles down the road.  I strongly urge you to make the drive and stop by.  Pull in the drive and blow the horn a couple of times until someone gets up off the porch or comes out of the house.  Stand by the car, wave and say hello.  If s/he waves or says hello go and talk to him/her.  If s/he seems contentious or yells for you to get off the property, seriously consider if you want that person as a neighbor.

Inquire about Communications

Depending on the population of the area, the communication systems will vary.  If you are phone, TV and Internet-dependent you need to ask where the closest cell phone tower is and if there is cable laid nearby.  You may have to get satellite TV/internet service and maybe a landline phone.  In my area, we are 12 miles too far from cell tower range and while in sunny weather we can call out and receive text messages, most of our incoming calls roll directly to voice mail.  Satellite internet out in the country is priced by data amounts so if you have game addicts in your house you need to figure out an alternative to online gaming.  If you go over your allotted data amount it slows to dial up speed or you can buy more data at sky high prices.

Be Aware

I hope this article has helped you to consider some of the variables involved when purchasing a country homestead. While setting up and running a homestead is challenging; it is also exciting. Thinking through these basic issues will help you negotiate your purchase.  Be wise and be aware before you buy!

You should also read:

  • Moving Toward Self-Reliance for the Working Poor
  • You Don’t Need To Be Wealthy to Homestead
  • Start Saving Today and Live Your Homesteading Dream Tomorrow
  • The Philosophy Of Tiny House Living – Things To Consider Before Going Tiny

Filed Under: Homesteading

How To Find and Buy Land for a Small Homestead

August 6, 2018 M.D. Creekmore

When you are buying a small homestead

Are you ready to begin homesteading? You’re joining a growing number of Americans who are returning to our roots and living off what the land provides.

So how do you get started? It’s kind of obvious but you need land. In order to find the perfect piece of land, you should consider all the benefits associated with it such as increasing land value, lower cost of maintenance and especially freedom to utilize it in any way you want.

The good news is you don’t need thousands, or even hundreds of acres, to have a fully functional homestead. Indeed, you can homestead on less than ten acres. But it’s not something you should take lightly or do quickly.

As you begin, there are several factors to consider when you are looking for your perfect homestead.

What size property do you need?

The first question you need to ask yourself is what size of property you need for your homestead. And the key word is ‘need,’ and not necessarily ‘want.’ My focus is on smaller homesteads, those less than 10 acres, but there is still a significant difference between an acre or two and 10.

On a small property, it will be tough to have room for cattle to graze, particularly if you are using the property for anything else. You would likely have room for a family milk cow, but not a lot more.

So just spend time considering what your homestead will look like. And what you want it to look like in the future. Have those plans drawn out so you don’t overbuy or underbuy.

How far out do you want to be?

You also need to consider location. Homesteading on a decent sized piece of property is generally not something you do in a subdivision. That means you will likely be moving out of town. The question is, how far out can you be, or do you want to be?

Do you want neighbors? For some, they want to be as far away as they can be. That usually works well because prices would tend to be less the more rural you get (in most places). But think of life’s basic necessities. Are you okay with having to drive 30 or 40 miles to a drug store? Maybe 15 or 20 miles is more your liking. Just make sure you are happy with the location before you sign the dotted line.

Do you want to live off the grid?

For some, the beauty of homesteading is the ability to be totally self-sufficient. You can do that.

Others don’t want to take it quite to that extreme and want electricity, water, relatively accessible roads. Keep this in mind when you spot that dream piece of land.

How much do you want to spend?

As with any real estate transaction, you need to have a budget. You don’t want to make go broke homesteading, but it’s more than just the final price tag of the property to pay attention to.

How much work needs to be done? Not just to the house, but to the property. Does it have outbuildings, or will you need to build them, or at least put money in repairing them? Does the land need to be cleared out? It stands to reason you will need to put some money into making the property right for your needs.

What kind of land do you need?

When you think about the plans for your homestead, consider what you need the land to provide. If you are relying on a wood stove to heat the house, do you have sufficient trees for your needs? If you will have cattle, does it have open land for grazing?

These are just a couple examples of questions you need to ask. In most instances, you can work the land to make it right for you, but that might not be preferable.

How much work do you want to do in preparing the land?

As a follow up to the previous question, think about the work you want to put in. One response might be that you just want to purchase a small farm or homestead that is being used in a fashion similar to what you envision.

On the other end of the spectrum, you can start completely new. You can buy property that you need to clear, build a house and any outbuildings and bring in water and electricity. This will allow you to have a homestead drawn to your exact specifications but will be time-consuming and costly.

Is the property appropriately zoned?

Make sure you can have chickens, cattle or other livestock on your property. In some instances, you need to make sure you can have outbuildings. The further out you go, the less of an issue this will be. But do make sure you check this off your list.

What about Internet access?

If you are running either a full-time or side business from your homestead, or maybe just a blog, you want to have reasonably fast Internet speeds. Unless you want to spend all of your free time on your computer.

Does it make sense for your needs?

By purchasing a homestead, you are committing to a new lifestyle. It can be a great experience and something you can pass on to your children.

But, you want it to work for you. If you want to be close to school, be close to a school. If you want to be close to town, be close to town. If you have no need for a hundred acres, don’t buy a hundred acres.

This property needs to meet your needs. The previous questions served more as a checklist or bullet points to ponder as you find a property. This is a little deeper. This is about finding a property that is right for you and your family.

You don’t want to make a purchase and regret it. By thinking about these questions, you will be off to a great start in your new life on the homestead.

If you want even more in-depth prepping and homesteading information then please check out my best selling 176-page book “How To Survive The End Of The World As We Know It – Gear, Skills, and Related Know-How. It’s available in paperback and well as Amazon Kindle.

Filed Under: Homesteading

P-38 or P-51 Can Opener Review

August 6, 2018 Jesse Mathewson

can opener pic

Not everything made for the military is truly well made. In many cases what is made for the military, regardless of nation of origin, often is low-end and fits into a rather loose set of restrictions guiding its building.

This is the case with the amazing folding can opener known as the P-38 and P-51. 

The P-38 can opener was designed for soldiers in 1942, it filled the need for a can opener for the C Rations that existed in some form through the early 1980s when MREs replaced these. It should be noted that an identical tool was featured in a 1924 Popular Mechanics issue in tools for women. (see picture) The provenance as we can see is slightly murky.

Can opener

This is not a history lesson, I will leave that for others who are willing to dig further than I am at this time. It should be noted that it was not the Army that invented it, but rather an individual working under contract out of a private laboratory in Chicago, possibly far earlier than 1942. The P-38 or P-51 has never been known to break, need sharpening or rust. It simply works and it works very well!

Every single soldier that has had one has embraced them and ends up keeping them for many years. This truly is one of the best inventions ever made. It is a true multi-tool in that its design allows use for many applications and it does those well without fuss or being large and complicated like so many approaches to the same issues today.

They are extremely easy to use and inexpensive to purchase. Here are the instructions for use of the can opener regardless type as printed by the military.

can opener instructionsCan Opener Directions

  1. Open blade
  2. Place can opener as shown in diagram (see attached diagram)
  3. Twist down to puncture slot in the top of the can
  4. Cut top by advancing opener with a rocking motion. Take small bites as you move forward.

Sterilize it after every use!

There is really nothing I can say that will detract from the overall benefit seen in this simple tool. I would suggest purchasing U.S. Shelby Co. labeled product versus others available. Because of the very low cost to produce these great tools, there is no real market for knock-offs, the profit margin is extremely low. You can buy a package of ten of them for under $10 using this link here. And yes, I have specifically tested and used these. Again, they make amazing stocking stuffer type gifts.

If you are thinking, why do I need 10 of these, well the answer is literally this good. One for the keychain, two for the tool drawer in the kitchen, one for your car and one for each bug out type bag, another for traveling and always have spares because…the airport security may indeed take yours. Personally, I have purchased several dozen over the years. Between losing them and giving them away it is definitely something to buy a few of!

There it is, my review of the P-38/P-51 can opener and with a definite buy a couple more as a suggestion I can end this article with a two thumbs up. Hope you enjoyed this article, comment and let me know when you got your first can opener and if you use it regularly.

can opener pic

Free the mind and the body will follow

Filed Under: Gear Reviews

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