M.D. CREEKMORE

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Here you will find articles on small acreage homesteading and farming topics such as homestead setup and how to buy a cheap homestead. You'll also find articles on topics such as gardening, DIY projects, raising livestock etc.

Survival Through A Home Business

We survivalists AKA preppers spend a lot of time worrying about a national or worldwide collapse scenario, giving little thought to collapse on an individual level. The fact is many things can happen to send your life into turmoil creating a personal collapse.

You can be laid off from your job or fired. Your employer could move or company close. You could become sick or injured, no longer able to work at your present capacity or industry.

You should consider starting a home business. With a home business, you have a hedge against unemployment and become an asset to your neighbors.

No doubt many of you have thought of starting your own business but lack the willpower to actually get it going.

Every home business started with an idea followed by action. You have to put your ideas to work, if not you’re guaranteed to fail.

Starting a home business need not be expensive or time-consuming. Many can be started part-time with little resources or cash outlay. A good book that has been a great resource for me is Small Time Operator by Bernard B. Kamoroff. 

Ideas to consider:

I’m sure you have many other home business ideas and I can’t wait to read about them in the comments below. Just remember ideas should have low start-up costs that the operator can run from home. I have a full-length article covering 31 home business ideas that you can read by clicking on this link. 

Now the bad news. Even a home business can falter. According to statistics on average 50% of home, businesses fail within the first year. This may sound discouraging but one thing is guaranteed –  if you never start you will never be included in the 50% that make it.

Steps To Success

  • Consider your Skills
  • Make a plan
  • Avoid entering a saturated market
  • Don’t go into debt
  • Set a work schedule and stick to it
  • Consider customer needs
  • Look for a “recession-proof” business
  • Prepare to work long hours for little pay
  • Don’t quit your current job (if you have one) until you’re established

Having a home business is just another step toward survival and self-reliance. Think about it; how can you be self-sufficient if you depend on others for your livelihood?

Do you run a home business? What is it? What advice would you give others starting out?

Where I Live as A Survival Retreat Location

Yesterday, a reader dropped an email asking specifics about my retreat location. I’ll admit being caught off guard by such a sensitive question. However; I don’t think the sender has evil intentions only curiosity. Maybe he was looking for an example to compare his situation – I don’t know.

To be honest, I didn’t know what to think at first, but after some thought, I decided it probably wouldn’t hurt to elaborate on my general area (Southern Appalachian Mountain Range) without divulging details that could present a security risk.

No doubt some of you have considered this area yourself.

The Good

The area has a long growing season with plentiful rainfall, sunlight and fertile soil. Raising a garden here is not a problem.

Many areas are covered by thousands of acres of forest, with most of the population being concentrated in a few areas.

Wild game is abundant, with black bear, white-tail deer, wild turkey, rabbit, and squirrel. And the rivers, creeks and other bodies of water are loaded with aquatic life.

During spring and summer, the forests and fields are teeming with eatable plants such as blackberry, cattail, wild rice, butternut, stinging nettle, sheep sorrel and lamb’s quarters.

The Bad

But the area isn’t perfect with a number of negative factors to consider.

It’s nearly impossible to find any type of work. Currently, the county where I live has an official unemployment rate of 5.2%. But it’s really MUCH higher than that because a large part of the population is on the “draw” AKA the disability/welfare check from the federal government. Jobs are few – if you’re an outsider forget about getting a good-paying job.

The decent employment opportunities that do exist are quickly filled by friends and relatives of established workers, management and officials.

Reported unemployment numbers, only include those looking for work.

The real unemployment rate here is much higher. I would estimate the number at 60% to 70% since those living from social security, disability benefits and welfare aren’t included in the official number.

The area has a large welfare-dependent underclass. Nearly everyone is on “the draw” and living from government handouts at the first of the month. They’ve learned to work the system, many being second or third generation, welfare addicts.

I know several dozen “disabled” residents, all in their thirties who’ve been receiving social security disability payments most of their lives, (they claim to have a bad back) yet riding horses, dirt bikes and ATV’s is a common activity and doesn’t seem to bother their condition in the least, while work is another story often leading to severe pain.

How is that possible? Could it be they’re faking so they can stay on the draw?

The Ugly

And let’s not forget the drugs. Both illegal and prescribed. When I was growing up here, all you heard about was marijuana. Now the drugs of choice seemed to be methamphetamine and Oxycontin.

With the amount of drug use in the area, I’m surprised there isn’t more crime. But then for a population of just over 20,000 countywide we do have our share of property crime and the occasional homicide.

Conclusion

I don’t look for much rioting or looting, however, I do expect a huge increase of home invasions and property theft, especially if the government checks stop.

If you’re known to have supplies you could become a target. I expect to spend many sleepless nights guarding what I have.

You’re probably asking yourself why I continue to live here? To answer in one word – family.

How about you

Would you recommend your current location as a retreat area? Why? Why not? Looking forward to your recommendations. Also, if you don’t already own a copy then I suggest that you get a copy of Strategic Relocation: North American Guide to Safe Places then I suggest you get a copy if you’re looking for a safer area to call home.

Ten Ways To Keep Warmer This Winter

by The Frugal Fraulein, you can visit her blog at Frugal Canning…
 
Since I opted to turn off the electric heat this winter and use wood I have learned so much! First, it can be done. I not only have lowered my electric bill but I am getting exercise collecting, cutting, splitting and hauling in wood.
 
It is true that there are other things that can be done to keep warm besides changing the source of your heat.
 
1. Wear layers of clothing. Your body creates heat and wearing layers contains this free source of heat. Did you know polyester underwear and long underwear is considered by survivalists to be the superior fabric of choice for undies? The reason is it wicks away moisture.
 
Both cotton and wool hold moisture which can lead to hypothermia. I choose to have many polar fleece articles of clothing. I have hats, gloves, mittens, scarves, vests, jackets, pants, pullovers, socks and a bathrobe all made from polar fleece.
 
My mother (who is 80 years young) now loves her polar fleece pants and loved the fact that she could hem them by simply cutting them off at the bottom. Polar fleece does not unravel or fray! If you are really cold, wear a warm hat as most heat escapes from your head and the brain gets the cold message immediately.
 
2. Throws and lap blankets. I have one on each of my easy chairs. If I feel chilled I pull one on and snuggle with Mister T. I have wool, down, cotton and polar fleece throws and again polar fleece wins the contest for being the warmest. Last Christmas I received a Snuggle which was one of the most popular gifts of the season. It is a great idea and design but the quality of fleece used is not warm enough for my taste so I use it in the warmer months.
 
3. Cover furniture with polar fleece. (Sounds like I am doing a commercial for polar fleece but I am not. If there is a polar fleece company that would like to hire me to do endorsements, of course, I am available.) I covered my sofa with polar fleece at first to keep it clean when I had two dachshunds.
 
What I discovered was it very warm to sit on the couch and I have noticed that the company seems to head straight for the couch and always comments on how comfy it is. I highly recommend a large piece of a good quality polar fleece for your favorite perch to keep you warm.
 
4. Socks and Slippers. I am not a fan of socks and would prefer to be barefoot. There is a huge difference in the warmth of my body when I wear socks so I have come to accept their importance to my well being in the winter months. Coupled with a great pair of warm slippers you will not feel drafts that creep around the floor. Since hot air rises, feet are subject to this cold air.
 
5. Down Comforters. For years I would not even consider a down comforter for my bed. Since most birds fly south for the winter why would down be warm? Silly me. Years ago when I still lived in New England I had the opportunity to go to a sleeping bag factory. At their outlet store I purchased a down sleeping bag before the zipper had been installed. This “blanket” was very toasty and held in my own body heat.
 
It was simple army green and I made a duvet cover for it. I had that blanket for many years and it finally met its demise to mold while being stored. Two summers ago I chanced upon a very good quality down comforter that was being sold by a woman who thought it was too warm.
 
Since I absolutely love a cold bedroom and have my window open at night 365 nights of the year, I was thrilled to steal it for $10. Again I have a duvet cover to keep it clean and I love the warmth I feel when I cuddle with Mister T (for those of you that don’t know, Mister T is my best buddy my mini black and tan dachshund).
 
6. Use Door Draft Stoppers. Door draft stopper or guards are filled tubes that keep cold air from creeping under doors. They can be purchased new or made easily by filling a tube sock or tube of fabric with rice, beans, sand or stuffing. They look a bit like a snake and really do the trick. If you have a dog like mine that likes to pull the innards out of stuffed animals don’t make yours with stuffing!
 
7. Close Doors. Keep the doors closed to rooms that do not need to be heated. Just heat the areas that you sit in during the day.
 
8. Do leave the Bathroom Door Open. Showers and baths create lots of heat but more importantly humidity. In the winter the house dries out and the moisture from the bathroom can help tremendously. Now I understand in some family’s privacy is important. Just leave the door open after showering and don’t use the fan.
 
9. Do Leave the Oven Door Open. Leave the oven door open after cooking and turning off the oven. Let that heat escape to warm the kitchen.
 
10. Do Open the Dishwasher When Washing Cycle is Finished. Once the dishes are washed open the door and let the dishes air dry. This will let the heat escape, allow the moisture to escape to humidify the house and save a bundle on electricity over a period of time.
 
Hopefully one or more of these suggestions will help you stay snuggie warm in the cold months. If all else fails go to the animal shelter and get a Dachshund. Dachshunds love to snuggle under the blankets and curl up and sit in your lap. They are loving, loyal, small and great substitutes for hot water bottles. Your other alternative is to go to bed early with a good book.

How I Made My Tiny Home Out of a Shipping Container

inside-container-home
The inside of my container home.

guest post by KR Prepper 

I like living frugally. There’s a certain power that comes from knowing that you don’t ‘have’ to spend money.

I used to run a recording studio. I saw the writing on the wall, that I wouldn’t be able to sustain my business long term (economy, local music market changes, burnout). I had been living in the office building that housed my recording studio, showering at the local gym.

I had recently read “Dirt Cheap Survival Retreat, by MD Creekmore and Travel Trailer Homesteading under $5000” Brian D. Kelling and begin praying about how to not be homeless (read this article on how to survive being homeless).

After searching for land. I found a place north of my studio right at 4800. It was a half-acre. It was the only place within my price range, so I met the guy. He and his wife were very friendly. Set up a contract for deed at 220 a month for a couple of years.

Then I looked at several options. I’m not a handyman, so I knew a self-build would be out of the question. My next glance was prefab, but I knew that music gigs would keep me away from my place for stretches at a time. So anything that could be burned, or broken into easily couldn’t work.

So I chose an 8′x20′ shipping container and made it home.

Here’s my setup process…

The Cost

My container came insulated, framed, and wired with lights with delivery for 3300 I could’ve done these things myself, but time being of the essence. This was the wisest option If you’re not near the coasts. I found that metal fabricators are the best place to get them, as they will customize them with doors, windows, and other stuff.

Mine has a man door and 4 ventilation ducts and a metal floor. The metal floor is better, as off-gassing of pesticides and other things are less of a problem.

Prep: Before purchasing the container, I purchased everything that I needed inside FIRST. Because I knew I’d have a bill. I wanted to have all of my gear set up before I’d hunker down.

Heating/Cooking

Buddy Heater / 40# Propane tank. I use this to simply heat up the cabin quickly in the morning while the fire is building 1920 Estate Woodstove: I found this piece at a consignment store around the corner from my studio for $100 bucks. Spent a couple of bucks more on the stove pipe and done. 2 of my friends donated barbecue pits to me. One is gas with a burner, and one is charcoal/wood.

Sanitation/Water:

Coleman Camping Toilet. I wasn’t planning on humanure composting, so I filled the flush tank with bleach/water to help kill the odor. Ecotemp Portable On Demand Water Heater. I use this unit to provide running water Shurflo 3gpi RV pump (2) 55-gallon water tanks (4) 5-gallon water bottles this covers my water needs for 2-3 months.

I also have made it a habit to fill up my water cisterns every time I go into town for free. I hope to have a well drilled within the next year, but this saves money for now.

Lighting / Power:

 Sunforce 60w Solar Panel System with upgraded power controller and inverter 2 deep cycle batteries, Coleman CPX lanterns with power supply. The lights recharge via a drill type battery, so I’d be covered as long as the batteries hold up.

Refrigeration: I bought a used propane refrigerator for $50. Honestly. During the winter I put my coolers outside. Minnesota IS the freezer.

Storage: I salvaged a set of Kitchen Cabinets and a countertop for free. Just the cost of Driving to get it.

Cabin Setup: 1 I cleared a 10×25′ rectangle, and put cinder blocks/logs near where I wanted the cabin to be. My lot is narrow, so we had to take down trees to get everything in. Good. Free firewood.

Went to the distributor to pick from the containers that they had. This was in July. So I got to FEEL for myself the difference between the container that was insulated vs the one that was not. Without any fans or AC, the insulated container was bearable. The one that wasn’t felt like an oven.

I also had read up on some of the chemicals they put in them for travel. The ones with wood floors can pose health problems due to off-gassing. So mine was floored with metal. They had already installed a man door, lighting, and a power cable. (upon getting to my property. My system was insufficient to power them, no worries).

After purchasing the container… I set up a date to have it delivered. It arrives on the back of a flatbed trailer. They had to cut more trees to get the truck in and trailer to clear. Great! more firewood. The first night I slept on the metal floor with a packing blanket… It was the best night of sleep in a long time.. It was cold and hard, but MINE.

2: Cutting the hole for the woodstove.. A drill and a Sawzall.
3: Getting a twin mattress from Menards.

There have been several layers of improvements, but I believe this is one of the best ways to get cheap shelter.  Although I no longer live there full time… I miss this place so much. I’ll move back in a while.

Can You Use Diesel Fuel In a Kerosene Heater?

Is It Safe to Burn Diesel Fuel in a Kerosene Heater?by Jeff in Ohio 

Can You Use Diesel Fuel In a Kerosene Heater? That’s a good question and one that I will answer below…

It is well-known that diesel engines are capable of using other fuels besides diesel. This includes kerosene (with added lubrication). But how well does diesel work in items designed for kerosene? Theoretically, they should be almost interchangeable.

But are they? I decided to find out for myself. First, I will describe the items used followed by the results of using diesel fuel in them. The fuel used in the testing was off-road diesel that had been dyed red for tax purposes.

So, Can You Use Diesel Fuel In a Kerosene Heater?

Yes, you can burn diesel in a kerosene heater. Diesel burns surprisingly well in MY 23,000 BTU Kerosun brand kerosene heater. I could detect no difference in flame height or heat output and no odors. A friend that works at the local fuel co-op told me that diesel may reduce the life of the wick but so far I can’t tell any difference.

Even if it does occur, wicks are fairly cheap and the difference in fuel price can result in significant savings over the long haul.

Butterfly brand 22 wick 14,000 BTU kerosene stove.

I love this stove because of its simplicity and versatility and I have two of them. It uses rope wicks that are simply moved up and down to adjust heat output. It is made as a cook stove but works quite well as a heater.

Be aware that these stoves do not have an auto-shutoff feature if knocked over. Flame height and heat output were the same. However, I could detect a slight increase in odor and a very small amount of black smoke as well. For temporary use indoors I don’t think this would be a problem. I believe diesel is a viable alternative fuel in this stove.

Dietz Monarch lantern.

This is the”railroad” lantern most people are familiar with. Like the Butterfly brand stove above, these are a model of simplicity. Light output was about the same and I could detect no difference in odor but it was quite smoky.

It didn’t take long to soot up the chimney. This was bad enough that it would have to be cleaned off every day. I would not want to use this in a closed-up house unless I was desperate. Outside use would be fine.

Coleman Exponent multi-fuel stove with kerosene jet installed.

This is a rugged backpacking stove and is quite a little powerhouse. Diesel did not work well in this stove. There was spiking yellow flames among the normal blues flames and it constantly spit and sputtered.

I’m theorizing that the less refined diesel fuel was not vaporizing properly resulting in the mediocre performance. While it would be ok to boil water with, I would not want to cook on this, unless once again I was desperate.

I did not try using diesel in any of my Aladdin lamps after the Dietz experiment above. If the Dietz would smoke as much as it did I had no doubt that the Aladdin would not run on it with the wick and mantle setup. So I passed on that one.

So now that I know the above what good does it do me? Well, a lot. I can store cheaper diesel instead of more expensive kerosene. In my area, off-road diesel is usually at least 1 dollar a gallon cheaper. That is a significant savings if you store fuel in quantity or allows you to store more fuel for the same price.

It seems that in many areas kerosene can be difficult to come by but diesel is readily available. Even when kerosene is available diesel seems to be sold in many more locations.

Also if in an extended TSHTF scenario and my kerosene stock starts to run low I can switch to diesel in the items that run well with it thereby extending my supply of kerosene. Next is what I call “scroungeability”. In short, diesel is almost everywhere.

The tractor sitting in a barn or field. The long-haul truck. That bulldozer sitting at a construction site. Also, many diesel trucks have large fuel tanks in the beds. I am not advocating stealing but this does provide a lot of opportunities for bartering or scrounging in certain circumstances. Also, my own diesel vehicle can be used as a source as well and a large one if the tank is kept at least half full.

While I have not tried home heating oil in the above, I have no doubt that it would work. Home heating oil is virtually identical to diesel. In many areas, the heating oil tanks at houses are more common than propane tanks. Again, another potential source of fuel. A homemade 12v fuel transfer setup would be nice to have here as well.

When trading for or buying fuel of unknown quality it is essential that it be filtered properly for both water and sediment before use. Fuel filters are cheap insurance. I was once stranded along a country road due to clogged fuel filters in my Mercedes diesel.

I had been using scrounged diesel and had not filtered it at all. Both the primary and secondary fuel filters were so clogged that the engine couldn’t run and kept stalling. Not only was I using fuel of questionable quality without filtering it I did not have spare fuel filters with me for the car. Lesson learned.

Many people use kerosene appliances and fuel as their primary backup for emergencies both short and long-term. They are both relatively cheap and readily available. As a bonus, kerosene as a long shelf life if stored properly and more importantly is a safe fuel to store in quantity.

By knowing what alternative fuel can be used in them and their limitations it only increases my options. Fuel interchangeability is a great option to have. Plus be sure to store plenty of extra wicks as needed. Also if used indoors be sure to use more than adequate ventilation and a CO2 detector.

Now for storing that fuel beforehand. Large underground tanks for storage are good to have but may not be practical for several reasons including the cost. Plus, like a lot of people, I live in a small town and large amounts of fuel kept at the house is not practical.

But do you have unused land somewhere or a trusted friend with some property? Then you can make what I call my “mini fuel storage depot”. This is simply a wooden pallet set up on some bricks to keep it off the ground.

On the pallet, there is room for a 55-gallon drum with either diesel or kerosene, five 5 gallon metal jerry cans of gasoline and two 20 lb propane tanks or whatever combination you prefer. On top of this goes a heavy-duty tarp properly secured to keep the weather out and provide some camouflage.

A camo net could go over this for additional concealment if needed. By placing the above in a shaded area it avoids large temperature swings and if the fuel is properly treated this works very well long-term.

By having several of these over a wide area or on different properties you avoid having all your eggs in one basket. If one is compromised or destroyed by fire your entire fuel storage is not lost.

By being above ground you run a slight risk of exposure. However, if sited properly and carefully camouflaged (possibly as a junk pile?) they are not hard to conceal. I hope people find this useful and remember to follow all safety guidelines as outlined by the heater and or appliance manufacturer and keep in mind that these are my results and yours could be different… see the disclaimer policy here.

How To Raise Baby Chickens: How To Get Hens To Adopt Mail Order or Feed Store Chicks

raising baby chickens

by Christine M

If you have ever raised day-old chicks from the feed store or by mail order you know that it is a hassle. You have to monitor them all the time, check the temperature of the brooder and in general be their mommy until they are old enough to go in with the adult birds. Not to mention heat lamps are notorious for starting fires!

In contrast, a mother hen does all that and more! She keeps the chicks at a perfect temperature all the time, babysits them to perfection, teaches them how to find food and what to eat, and defends them aggressively against any threat, including other chickens!

But what if you want to order certain chicken breeds without the hassle of having to raise the chicks. Is there another way?

Yes, there is! You can have one of your broody hens adopt the store-bought chicks as her own and raise them with her own hatched out eggs.

It’s not a guarantee that it will work every time but I have had great success with this method and had broody hens take over as mommy to day-old chicks from the store. This method takes a little work at first but cuts down on me having to raise chicks for months apart from the adult flock.

Preplanning is key here. And be prepared that you may have to take the chicks back and raise them yourself if they are rejected. First, you will need a broody hen from your own flock that has been happily sitting on her eggs for at least 10 days.

The 10 days will show you if she is serious about it. Try not to bother her or move her. It will upset her setting. Also, the best breeds I have found for adopting chicks are the calmer, less nervous breeds. So if you have several broody hens sitting pick the ones that you have noticed are the calmest.

Note: If you want a hen to adopt chicks that are not her own she HAS to have gone broody first. If you put chicks into a coop with a bunch of adult chickens they will be killed or harassed all the time.

First I do recommend that you try to get your broody hen into her own pen away from other chickens. Yes I know I just said not to move her, and rarely does a broody hen choose a good spot. The best way I have found to move a broody hen without causing her to give up her nest is to wait the 10 days and then move her at night with all her eggs and some of the bedding material from her nest to a secure place.

Having a good little area for her that is away from her flock sisters keeps the other hens from coming in and pestering her (they will come in and lay eggs in her nest thus mixing half-developed chicks with newly laid eggs) and also once her chicks are with her they will be safe from attack from adult chickens. She will get up from the nest once a day to eat, drink, and defecate and then hurry back to her nest, so provide food and water near her.

So here is how you get a broody hen to take other chicks:

First, the chicks you want to have adopted must be just hatched or very close to only a few days old. Not only does this make the hen more likely to take them, but when the chicks are too old won’t bond as easily with the hen and stay close to her protective body.

If you are ordering chicks for this purpose it is best to get a delivery date as close to your hen’s eggs hatching date as possible. This is entirely doable with most hatcheries as they have the ability to ship chicks all the time from spring through fall.

The first method and most effective:

Wait until her own chicks have hatched or at least a few have hatched out, it can take sometimes 3 days for all chicks to hatch from a clutch of eggs. So if she already has hatched out at least one chick wait till well after dark before you approach her. She still might fuss but will be much more likely to calm down right away.

Approach the hen as quietly as possible and try not to use any lights. Slip the chicks one at a time under the hen, If she starts getting too upset stop for a while, move away, and leave her be. Then try putting the rest under her after about an hour. Once you have got all the chicks under her leave her be. She should be clucking to them softly and getting them under her body for warmth.

Note: If a setting hen has a bunch of chicks that have hatched (or she has adopted) running around she may abandon the rest of the eggs in the nest yet to hatch to follow and protect them. If that happens you can brood them under another setting hen the rest of the way, or if you have an incubator use that to hatch them out.

Second Method:

Let your hen sit on eggs until she is very close to the hatch time and don’t worry if she abandons the eggs she has been sitting on once she has live chicks to look after. Use the same method as above. The only difference is that once she has accepted the new chicks take out the eggs she has been brooding and throw them away. I personally don’t like this method because I don’t like killing something that can live.

Third Method:

You can graft chicks onto a broody hen that has only been setting a few weeks, but it’s not as sure as letting her go the full 21 days. Follow the second method if you need to do this, such as your delivery date wasn’t as close as needed or the broody hen you intended to use gave up sitting and you have to use a different girl who hasn’t been setting as long.

After Grafting:

Check on the mom and chicks the next morning at dawn. You will know if she has adopted them because she won’t be attacking them and they will either be under her for warmth or close by scratching around for food. Make sure to have a chicken waterer and food available for them.

Check on your little family as frequently as possible without upsetting the hen too much for the first few days. You need to watch for rejected chicks. They will be often hiding in a corner so the hen won’t peck them.

If she rejects some or all of the chicks you will have to take them out and rear them yourself with a heat lamp. If you see the hen actively attacking the chicks then get them out immediately!

Chicks that are raised by a hen have many advantages over those raised in a brooder. They learn how to find food, when to run for cover, can be put in with the adult flock much sooner, and are more likely to become good mothers themselves.